Re:
Just to clarify, I'm certainly not the holder of the last word on rust removal, but, I
cause rust almost daily! I've been a welded steel artist/sculpture (hate saying that out loud) for about 15yrs. I mostly do rust patina and clear coat on my kelp(a type of seaweed) sculptures. I have my own formula for causing instant rust, but have done quite a bit of rust removing as well.For reference, my website:
http://www.wingnutdesigns.com. (Mods: Hope it's ok to post this, if not, please remove with my apologies)
Here's my 2 cents:
You could dab the rust spots with Muriatic Acid then neutralize with baking soda and water. The acid with eat the rust right off. But this is very, very strong acid so baby steps. This is dangerous stuff so do your research on it before using. You need full PPE. This s**t will absolutely kill you if you f**k up.
More gentle would be trying vinegar. Weaker so will need to soak the rust longer, but will eventually take it off. Problem with any acid is it goes after the good metal too, but not as fast as it eats the rust.
You can get rust converters which you glob on and it converts the rust to a different, more stable material. But, it doesn't remove it. I think most can be primed and painted.
Better and more efficient would be a grinder/ rotary tool/die grinder and a steel wire wheel. But take care again, as you'll take a bit of the good stuff with the rust.
Best would be soda blasting. You can buy little homer guns or get the whole frame done with a bit more attention to the rusty pitting. It will be clean as a whistle after that(and you'll want to put a light oil on it until painting as it's going to flash rust pretty quick unless you're in the desert....) Walnut shell, glass bead, Alum. Oxide, etc could be used too, but that's for a pro to do. The courser harder blasting media can not only really strip your metal away fast but using at too high pressure could/will distort your frame. (It's like millions of mirco ball peen hammer blows)
Once blasted clean, paint or powder coat.
If you want the pits filled, a light auto body filler and very fine sanding IF you're wet painting, NOT powder coating.
If powder coating..... a little secret, non welding/brazing fix is the original J B Weld. Not the other types of J B Weld, only the Original is powder coatable. (There may be other brands that will work with PC, but I only know of this one, and I know first hand the other sub types of J B Weld don't work.....)
You can use this to fill the pits and sand smooth once cured. It's tough stuff, but it will take Powder Coat.
Anyhow......that got long winded........but that be to no ones surprise............ XD!
Good luck!