Fitting a chain
- Thread starter Alison
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RobMac":spl333ad said:
Yeah so did I!
But that's not what I'm used to fit chains, and Alison sure couldn't use that for her case.
More useful is service instruction for chain as that mention where to link chain.
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 686193.pdf
It most important that big-big can be engaged. While this is not the best gear to select, you are likely to engage it occasionally by accident, for example just as the guy eating a pasty while on his phone overtakes you in his Range Rover.
The Shimano instructions are very clear on this.
If there is insufficient chain, the rear mech gets stuffed into the wheel. If you are lucky you need new spokes and mech. Worse cases involve trips to hospital and bent seat stays.
The Shimano instructions are very clear on this.
If there is insufficient chain, the rear mech gets stuffed into the wheel. If you are lucky you need new spokes and mech. Worse cases involve trips to hospital and bent seat stays.
rider":1plbankn said:RobMac":1plbankn said:
Yeah so did I!
But that's not what I'm used to fit chains, and Alison sure couldn't use that for her case.
More useful is service instruction for chain as that mention where to link chain.
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 686193.pdf
Those instructions a hopeless, I also opened a boxed NOS Shimano chain and thats what those instruction are from and they only really tell you how to join the chain.
RobMac":1qe3uuid said:rider":1qe3uuid said:RobMac":1qe3uuid said:
Yeah so did I!
But that's not what I'm used to fit chains, and Alison sure couldn't use that for her case.
More useful is service instruction for chain as that mention where to link chain.
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 686193.pdf
Those instructions a hopeless, I also opened a boxed NOS Shimano chain and thats what those instruction are from and they only really tell you how to join the chain.
We_are_Stevo
Old School Grand Master
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The Gospel according to Sheldon:
Chain Length
If you replace your chain or sprockets, you should check your chain length. New chains come longer than they need to be for the vast majority of bicycles. You will almost certainly need to shorten a new chain before installing it on your bicycle. If your large sprocket sizes are anywhere near the maximum your rear derailer can handle, the chain length can be quite critical.
If the chain is too short, it will be at risk for jamming and possibly ruining the rear derailer if you accidentally shift into the large-large combination. Never run with a chain that is too short, except in an emergency.
If the chain is too long, it will hang slack in the small-small combinations. You should never use those combinations anyway, so this is not a serious problem. If you exceed the recommended gear range for a particular rear derailer, you may have to accept droop in these gears.
The best technique for setting chain length is to thread the chain onto the large/large combination, without running it through the rear derailer. Mesh the two ends on to the large chainwheel so that one complete link (one inch, -- one inner and one outer half-link) overlaps. In almost all cases, this will give the optimum length.
http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain
Chain Length
If you replace your chain or sprockets, you should check your chain length. New chains come longer than they need to be for the vast majority of bicycles. You will almost certainly need to shorten a new chain before installing it on your bicycle. If your large sprocket sizes are anywhere near the maximum your rear derailer can handle, the chain length can be quite critical.
If the chain is too short, it will be at risk for jamming and possibly ruining the rear derailer if you accidentally shift into the large-large combination. Never run with a chain that is too short, except in an emergency.
If the chain is too long, it will hang slack in the small-small combinations. You should never use those combinations anyway, so this is not a serious problem. If you exceed the recommended gear range for a particular rear derailer, you may have to accept droop in these gears.
The best technique for setting chain length is to thread the chain onto the large/large combination, without running it through the rear derailer. Mesh the two ends on to the large chainwheel so that one complete link (one inch, -- one inner and one outer half-link) overlaps. In almost all cases, this will give the optimum length.
http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain
I don't see why you think she couldn't use the big + big + two method for a double chainset?rider":c0x9hzu5 said:Yeah so did I!RobMac":c0x9hzu5 said:
But that's not what I'm used to fit chains, and Alison sure couldn't use that for her case.
Big + big + two is the standard recommendation and much the most straightforward and safest, compared to the alternative hit-and-miss methods suggested above, for the reason that Hamster describes so well.
You will only ever get a sagging chain in the small/small combination if you have the wrong rear mech for your chainrings and sprockets spec. And small/small is such a daft gear to use that it doesn't make any sense basing your chain length around it.
