Fitting a chain

[Alison]

Now when I've fitted chains I've always done it fitting it using the outer chainring and the smallest sprocket measuring it when the jockey wheel cage bit is pointing straight down. Now my husbands bike only has the middle and inner chainrings on and the system is SRAM how do I fit the chain in order to get the correct length.

Many thanks

Alison

 

[originalshinkicker]

Now when I've fitted chains I've always done it fitting it using the outer chainring and the smallest sprocket measuring it when the jockey wheel cage bit is pointing straight down. Now my husbands bike only has the middle and inner chainrings on and the system is SRAM how do I fit the chain in order to get the correct length.

Many thanks

Alison

Always fit a chain on small chainring and small rear sprocket. Tension the chain so that the chain comes off the bottom jockey wheel, pulling the mech so that it just takes up tension and the chain doesn't foul the mech cage. Doing it this way ensures that you have chain tension on the smallest rings and should give enough chain length to cope with largest chainring and largest sprocket. This method works for 99% of gearing combinations.

 

[Raging_Bulls]

^^ What he said ^^

 

[ishaw]

Interesting. I was taught to use both big rings then add two links, though this never results in the chain having enough tension for the small/small scenario (though should there be a need to run small/small and big/big? Surely there should be enough other combinations that these would not be needed?).

 

[originalshinkicker]

Interesting. I was taught to use both big rings then add two links, though this never results in the chain having enough tension for the small/small scenario (though should there be a need to run small/small and big/big? Surely there should be enough other combinations that these would not be needed?).

It's not good to run small/small or large/large as you get so much chain cross leading to quick chain wear, and yes, there should be an alternative gear in there somewhere so you shouldn't need to do this. However, the small/small method almost always gives enough chain to keep everything tensioned and allow for every gear combination.

 

[RobMac]

I seem to remember Shimano saying middle ring front & middle ring rear, and the rear wheel spindle and both jockey wheels on the RD should just about all line up vertically. Then again that might be all b#ll#x :?

 

[originalshinkicker]

I seem to remember Shimano saying middle ring front & middle ring rear, and the rear wheel spindle and both jockey wheels on the RD should just about all line up vertically. Then again that might be all b#ll#x :?

How does that work on a double chainset?

 

[RobMac]

Mmmm good point I was sitting here thinking about that when you posted.
Those instructions Ive just given are the ones that come in the box with the Shimano components.

 

[rider]

Interesting. I was taught to use both big rings then add two links, though this never results in the chain having enough tension for the small/small scenario (though should there be a need to run small/small and big/big? Surely there should be enough other combinations that these would not be needed?).

I used Small/Small for fitting chains. Exactly as was stated in first reply.
There is sure enough combinations, so there is not need for so extreme chain crossing in real riding situations. But small/small I use for "parking" bike for longer time as that relieve tension of springs and gear cables.

 

[RobMac]

Ive just opened a boxed NOS XT RD and it mentions the chain length. And I quote: Add 2 links (with the chain on both the largest sprocket and the largest chainring)