First generation Extralite F1, frame painting.

Re:

I didn't say it first.

"The alternative is bare aluminum. I do wonder if the paint weighs more than the frame!"

Carry on trollin, I'm shutting down :facepalm:
 
Re: Re:

fettler":sxrarq56 said:
I didn't say it first.

"The alternative is bare aluminum. I do wonder if the paint weighs more than the frame!"

Carry on trollin, I'm shutting down :facepalm:


Hey buddy - I’m not trolling it was just a remark about the frame having already been at least once round the block - so a polished finish may not be possible.

Apologies if you took offence to an equally innocuous comment - to the one you were making. If you look at what I wrote I even started/ framed my observation with an apology for making a negative statement :|
 
Re:

Vapour / bead blast matt (matte? Matthew?) finish? :cool: if you don’t like it, you have a nice key for the paint :LOL: WD Pro put decals on, then vapour blasted, leaving polished metal underneath which was shown when he peeled them off. So, so cool and saves the weight of decals too :cool:

I think paint adds a fair amount... I checked once, 80g comes to mind, that could be bobbins though.

SP
 
Re: Re:

fettler":1kwod189 said:
I'm all for originality but if weight is a concern I'd leave it bare & polished. No such thing as a light weight tin of paint!

Even Extralite point out the lightweight are based on their anodized frames...so yes polished would be the weight saver.
I need to see the condition of the frame underneath the 1mm of green paint. I really am still in two minds about this.
I read up about anodizing on one site and they observe that without a colour (bare/clear), the welds often come out much darker. You don't know until it is done, which is not ideal really.
I might strip an area to see how the aluminum looks.
 
My trek was over 100g less without paint, but I honestly can't remember exactly what the difference was.

If you're gonna weight-weenie it, I reckon a blasted finish would look pretty sweet TBH. If not, it's gotta be the yellow.
 
Just a couple of words based on the experience of my own fails... I really wouldn’t recommend anodising a tubular frame... it’s not impossible, but it hides nothing... and will look it’s best when the frame is immaculate...
If it’s a weight weenie you want I like MTS’s vapour blast over decal masks idea, but I’d vote for the yellow now you have the proper code and access to original graphics.
 
Alu frames look great blasted but it wouldn't suit retro frame like this imo. That company linked above look like they'd do a good job and they clear coat over decals! Not many powdercoaters do that.
 
Re:

Apologies chaps.
I had every intention of getting home early and taking photos but alas best laid plans etc.

I will get an update ASAP.
 
Back
Top