Early Saracen Lovers Anonymous......

Should be ok just to pull it out. If it won't move try a little plus gas or similar.

Re-threading new housing is no problem. There is some internal guide which pushes it toward the 'light' :)
 
Cheers Muddy paw, coomer, rodrigues.

Well, gave it a good clean and degrease yesterday evening, on closer inspection there's a fair bit of rippling under the powder coat on the tt and dt, removed the decals to get a closer assessment. I've left one decal on the downtube out of respect for the Saracen cult here on RB.

On the whole it looks ok, the rippling isn't that noticeable except on close inspection, there's a good amount of chain rub on the DS chain stay and a minimal amount of cable rub where you'd expect. I began T-cutting and it's coming up well, I admit I'm very into this original purple/pink colour too, will crack on with this again this evening and put some pics up. Been mulling over how to finish it, having slightly worrying irrational thoughts of getting it blasted and powder coated again the original colour, also toying with the idea of stripping it to raw then lacquering to expose the metal and interesting lugs/brazing, but then the sensible part of me is saying, well it was on it's way to the dump, and actually looks ok as it is. Will make my mind up when cleaned the rest of the frame.

Met the first hitch last night too (knew it couldn't be so simple)

Began to pull the cable through from the seat post end and it started to uncoil, thought I'd try from the head tube end and it snapped straight off :facepalm: see below

Think I'm going to run some old gear cable inner through this and see if I can pull the whole lot out together. seems pretty well stuck and I'm worried to snap what's still visible leaving nothing to work with.

Does the outer definitely run right through? I have road bikes where it has a built in housing in the tube and only a short length of outer is needed at each end.



 
Re:

Lovely frame that one. Try squirting plenty of PlusGas into the holes around the cable entry holes. It is pretty common for full length internal cables to get seized in place by corrosion.
It will be tricky, but not impossible, to get it out if the outer snaps off flush with the frame.

One technique I have used is to thread a road brake inner cable through the seized cable outer until the pear nipple meets the end of the outer.
Then firmly clamp the other end of the cable into a bench vice and pull on the frame so that the cable outer is dragged out through the frame.
 
Re: Re:

drystonepaul":n3ya747x said:
Lovely frame that one. Try squirting plenty of PlusGas into the holes around the cable entry holes. It is pretty common for full length internal cables to get seized in place by corrosion.
It will be tricky, but not impossible, to get it out if the outer snaps off flush with the frame.

One technique I have used is to thread a road brake inner cable through the seized cable outer until the pear nipple meets the end of the outer.
Then firmly clamp the other end of the cable into a bench vice and pull on the frame so that the cable outer is dragged out through the frame.

Cheers man, yeah this is what I've been trying except without the vice and I've paid the price, the cable hasn't shifted but I've sliced the top of my middle finger instead on a bit of the rusty uncoiled 20 year old brake cable as pictured :cry: and then whilst nursing that I tripped over a 2lt bottle of white spirits sending most of it over the kitchen floor. My other half is livid so I'm gonna rest up my finger and tackle this tomorrow before I cause any more trouble, besides the plus gas is in the shed and I'm scared to go to the end of the garden after dark, think I'll get round the lack of a reasonable vice by tying the cable round the railings on my balcony.

I wouldn't mind the above accident so much but I cut the finger first and then had to mop up the white spirits with a cut finger, ouch, as expected with minus sympathy also, next time I'll remember to flood the house with white spirit before I sustain any open wounds.

Maybe I'll take some brasso to the components instead for now, should be safer.
 
Ahrgh balls. Sorry to hear about the housing. I've done this a few times now and patience is the key.

First time I just went at it with WD40 and some rubber gloves. Pulled and pulled, it all uncoiled but I got lucky and it flew out.

Since then I just plus gas in both holes and then wait. After a few days just wiggle it. If the housing moves in and out then go for it. Otherwise more plus gas and wait a few more days. Repeat until you get some movement.

Annoying I know and time consuming but you'll get the results in the end. Last time I did this was on a heavily rusted 89 Tufftrax with the same routing as this frame. Took about 2 weeks but came out easily in the end.

Good luck dude.
 
BTW on painting. I would strongly recommend either keeping the original paint or (if it's really knackered) get it powder coated in the original colour (or the pink or turquoise blue of the kili or kili comp) plus some repro decals - gil_m on this forum is your man.

For me part of the charm of 89/90 Saracens is the vivid palette and wicked decals. Nude frames are cool but just not quite right for this imao ;-)

Keep at it dude. I have an 89 kili flyer comp - riding it is a complete joy. This will be awesome when finished.
 
Re:

As above. The original paint is actually the original powder coat. Saracen were big fans of their polyester powder coating from about 1987 onwards. The catalogues always extolled the virtues of how hard wearing it was.
Probably why so many Saracens still survive with their original coating.
 
Ouch ! , i bet that made your eyes water :facepalm: .
I've never had that issue with the outer cable before but as advised using plus gas seems the way to go and when you eventually get round to re cabling i'd suggest using some grease to help get the outer cable in the frame again and that original paint finish looks pretty damn good for it's age :cool: ...
 
Does this thing take a 27.0 or 27.2 mm seat post?, the seat post was missing when I got it, tried a 27.2 today and seems like a bit of a battle, thought I'd consult the experts before I force it.


Ok first dose of plus gas administered, Rodrigues, I'd never realised leaving it up to two weeks is the way to go, I usually give it about five minutes :roll: not sure I have the patience so might give it another tug tomorrow. No progress with the frame today as it's a bit difficult trying to buff it up with the cable situation.

Ok so with regards to the build I've decided to re-use as much as possible and in the spirit of a good skip/dump build will try to avoid any costs at all (except new cables). Still unsure whether to go with the original 3x7spd set up or use bits from the spares box to go 1x7/8 or 1x1, I guess this largely depends on how well the original kit works. The tyres look good except the rear side wall is a bit torn, not sure whether it will need replacing or not. Common sense would probably relegate it to the bin but would be nice to re-use it, will post a photo.

Drystone, Rodrigues, you'll be glad to hear I've chucked out the powder coat idea, it's easy to get carried away day dreaming with a new project but you're right it's actually pretty good as is!

More to come...
 
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