Do I want a Pace ?

[trek_y]

I think I want an RC200. But do I really ?
I know they are legendary and British and cool because some sheep type was regularly seen riding one but what are they really like ? Box section aluminium looks great and interestingly different but what is it like to ride - bone jarringly stiff, prone to cracking ? There's one been kicking about on Ebay for the last few weeks in my size but has some nasty looking chainsuck damage - I presume this is a big no no.
My chosen wheels means I need to run disc brakes (and I like disc brakes) so this limits my choice to the late frames only or even the uber rare RC300 so do these come with their own little can of worms over the rim brake frames ? I did read that because of the replaceable dropouts then it was possible to get customised versions to add on the disc mounts to the earlier frames - true ? and am I likely to find them ?
Sorry for so many questions but this is an itch which I've avoided a lot of scratching over the years but thanks to this site is now back with avengance.
Oh and PS. anyone got one to sell in 18"/19"

 

[racer x]

This is mine and i cant get enough of it.. its very rare and in original team purple from PACE, all purple Pace frames was team bikes am told by Adrian owner of Pace mine is built as a replica around the original frame with my own spec in places like chainrings, cranks and stem in chrome

 

[Whatleymeister]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PACE-RC-200-F ... 408wt_1170

Just saying...

 

[secret_squirrel]

Have you also considered that Paces required differently dished wheels? Not sure how critical that is - maybe one of the experts can tell us. It may mean that you have to have a seperate set of wheels.

On disc conversion for the rear - I seem to recall Gil_m had 10 sets of custom drop outs made at one point. I also have a feeling that Pace themselves offer a disc compatible drop out for some of their models - so worth checking their retro shop.

Front discs are a little easier ranging from the early Hope Clamping conversion kits for mechanicals and C2's up to a mid-late model RC36 with 1" steerer. Anything up to a 2000 RC36 Evo III should have a removable steerer that you can apply a shimmed 1" steerer to.

Rigid RC31's in 1" steerer 420mm A-C versions are rare but obtainable too.

I almost bought the 16.5" Black RC200 F1 on ebay last night. Fortunately for my wallet it went higher that I was prepared to go but was still a pretty good deal.

 

[OldFatTi]

racer x yours is class!

 

[Houlio99]

@racer x,

Stunning bike. Always drooled over these as a kid growing up. Long live Mint Sauce!

JT

 

[dbmtb]

Even if you don't want one, you do because now you have sown the seed that is going to nag you and nag you....

No - there are better frames out there. But no frame you will ever have will get so much attention. Even in Denmark where hardly anyone has heard of Pace, mine get gazed at, even by those with no concept whatsoever of retro.

I wouldn't ride mine in extreme terrain - I use a fully for that nowadays - but for relatively gentle terrain like undulating woodland tracks, of which there are plenty where I live - and where you aren't putting a lot of strain on the headtube you really do have to be carrying too many pies around for you to be at risk of damaging it.

Things to be aware of:
Headset installaton is critical. DO NOT press the headset in too hard or you WILL split the headtube. Buying used, you don't know what previous owners have done but so far I've been lucky with my RC300 and RC200F6.
Wheel dish: Not sure myself about this. Certainly up to F6 it's an asymmetrical frame so will need an alternatively dished rear. My RC300 has a normally dished wheel as that's what I've been told to use on it - but the more I look at it the more I think the wheel needs redishing - but it is in alignment with the seattube so probably not....
Welds on my F6 are a lot tidier than on the RC300.
Seatpost is a dumb size - but do not use shimmed. And use one that's as long as possible. In general run the seatpost as far down as possible on Paces.
Ridewise - you have to ride them hard. Even with suspension forks, if you don't ride hard then they're boneshakers. They will creak at times but use of silicone at the seatclamp area and thorough greasing of BB shell quietened mine up.
Gil's dropouts are fine for rear discs. Running one on my F6. AFAIK he still has more left.

And finally .The rules of Yorkshire Square. No Fox forks or Shimano hubs please. It's Pace, Hope,X-Lite, Royce, Renthal and Middleburn all the way for these.....

 

[Rich]

The answer is YES, of course you need a Pace!!!

They seem to be popping up on the bay more and more these days, I've an RC200 F1, and have run regular wheels with no issues, as previously said, be careful of cracks, as with all old Alloy frames, there's a risk attributed, as I found out by running a shimmed post, thankfully it was able to be repaired locally (here in NZ)

Love mine though and ride in all conditions but can see why people don't ride hard case trails.

If you get one, you won't regret it, good luck!!!

Rich

 

[Kestonian]

You don't need a Pace - you need one of each

<checks inventory>

.... and maybe a couple of some of them.

An RC300 is a great compromise between modern and old-school, and never fails to attract positive comments.

 

[Whatleymeister]

Oof, that one on the left is awesome