Disc Drive woes

There was a 2nd upgraded version of the 36h black Comps with the plastic windows for the valve stem as well.

66772fec.jpg
 
John - a few months back I had to loosen most of the tension in my disc drive to fix a damaged cord but when it came to re-tension it I wasn't sure how much tension they require - do you have any guidelines for when you rebuild yours?
An extra consideration for me was that the damaged cord occurred when I was just finishing truing it after I bought it. Had it pretty much arrow straight then one last turn and *ping* a cord broke. Sat in the 'corner of half-finished projects' for a while until I mustered up the resolve to tackle it again. Now its running okay but in the back of my mind I think it might need more tension - but I don't want a repeat performance. I guess thats the joy of 20 year old bike parts.
 
I thought the pro model was minus the kevlar webbed skin (giving the reg model the blue/black appearance)

Either way I think they are cool as f*ck, possibly the best aftermarket mtb product made IMO.
 
Thanks for the link to the manual fluffychicken, some good stuff in there, especially liked the main features :D . Still not sure whether 10-12 kgf/cm is more or less than a normal spoked wheel but I guess google will reveal all when I have time. I need a disc drive spoke wrench though I think as I have been tensioning it so far using the screwdriver slot.
 
minor_LEGEND":36qhyw02 said:
I thought the pro model was minus the kevlar webbed skin (giving the reg model the blue/black appearance)

Either way I think they are cool as f*ck, possibly the best aftermarket mtb product made IMO.
The regular model had 'impact resistant alloy mesh' according to the 1992 Tioga Catalogue.
 
stevet1":2nsllb6w said:
John - a few months back I had to loosen most of the tension in my disc drive to fix a damaged cord but when it came to re-tension it I wasn't sure how much tension they require - do you have any guidelines for when you rebuild yours?
An extra consideration for me was that the damaged cord occurred when I was just finishing truing it after I bought it. Had it pretty much arrow straight then one last turn and *ping* a cord broke. Sat in the 'corner of half-finished projects' for a while until I mustered up the resolve to tackle it again. Now its running okay but in the back of my mind I think it might need more tension - but I don't want a repeat performance. I guess thats the joy of 20 year old bike parts.

Steve,

Afraid I'm not sure as I know any more than you. Have trued a few in the past but this is the first I've built from scratch. Tension wise I've no idea nor am I sure how you'd even measure it. I've ensured the wheel is tigher than before (when it came loose) judged off the amount of threads on the nipple. It seems tighter now all round. Just been round the projects on it, seems ok. Going to try and grab a proper ride tomorrow...

As for the wrench the screwdriver is easier although you need to pull the tyre and rim tape.
 
rojo":3ccdz5un said:
drystonepaul":3ccdz5un said:
rojo":3ccdz5un said:
Are they good wheels?

Of course they aren't.


Oh i see , shame as i think they look cool :(

Rojo, how long have you been a member here? it is nothing to :( about. It matters not one jot how cack something is as long as it looks cool.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top