Been watching a lot of 2nd life bikes on YouTube lately and fancied giving a Resto Mod a go myself. Had my eye on this Claude Butler Vantage on Facebook market place. Being new to the retro bike seen and I've not really attempted any mechanical wok on a bike before. Was looking for a opinion on whether this bike is a good candidate for a Resto Mod and is there what should I be aware of before attempting this? TIA
Claude Butler Vantage Resto Mod
- Thread starter Nog1988
- Start date
CassidyAce
Senior Retro Guru
Is it a good candidate for a resto mod? It depends on what you want from it. On the one hand, it was a cheap, entry level bike when new and that's not going to change. You should think accordingly when splashing out your cash. On the other hand, if it fits you well, you could get a lot of enjoyment from coasting around the countryside on it and you could learn a lot from doing it up. The benefits will be purely personal.
If I were you, I would first make sure it's safe: the brakes work, the stem and handlebars are securely fitted, the chain doesn't slip as soon as you pedal hard, etc. Then take it for a short ride or two. After that, I would look at the contact points: saddle, grips and pedals. If you're happy with them, good; if not, change them. After that, tyres: cheap, heavy tyres make riding feel like a slog. Something like Schwalbe's Billy Bonkers would work well with this bike and improve the enjoyment.
Avoid the cheapest no-name parts; there are parts that are a step or two above, don't cost much, and generally function well. Things like Clark's Elite brake pads, Charge Spoon saddles, and some Rock Bros pedals are very reasonably priced and are almost certainly worthwhile upgrades over the parts already on the bike. After that, I would consider options that require more skill and/or money, like servicing the hubs and drive train upgrades.
If I were you, I would first make sure it's safe: the brakes work, the stem and handlebars are securely fitted, the chain doesn't slip as soon as you pedal hard, etc. Then take it for a short ride or two. After that, I would look at the contact points: saddle, grips and pedals. If you're happy with them, good; if not, change them. After that, tyres: cheap, heavy tyres make riding feel like a slog. Something like Schwalbe's Billy Bonkers would work well with this bike and improve the enjoyment.
Avoid the cheapest no-name parts; there are parts that are a step or two above, don't cost much, and generally function well. Things like Clark's Elite brake pads, Charge Spoon saddles, and some Rock Bros pedals are very reasonably priced and are almost certainly worthwhile upgrades over the parts already on the bike. After that, I would consider options that require more skill and/or money, like servicing the hubs and drive train upgrades.
bold stelvis
Kona Fan
I would avoid it personally - cheapo aluminium frame just isn't worth the time and investment
Be prepared to spend way too much money
not necessarily on the original bike, but getting something to look the way you want will take more dough than you think. All these Youtube bike guys (Monkeyshred, Alan's Bikes, Old Shovel, etc) have big parts bins and know how to find stuff efficiently (and they get given things)
IMO you want to have a decent frame to start with - doesn't have to be especially posh or expensive, but needs to have something going for it, and you need to consider what kind of look you are after. I think often late 80s or earlier 90s MTB's make better candidates for this sort of thing - less racey geo and more adaptable
if you're in the uk something like an old Muddyfox, Saracen, Orange, Ridgeback, GT, Specialized, Marin, Kona, etc - or even a Raleigh if you know what models to look for (someone was selling a nice one the other day on here) - or the obvious old rock hopper/hardrock route though thats' kinda been done to death already
don't expect to get back what you put in if you decide to sell it
Be prepared to spend way too much money
not necessarily on the original bike, but getting something to look the way you want will take more dough than you think. All these Youtube bike guys (Monkeyshred, Alan's Bikes, Old Shovel, etc) have big parts bins and know how to find stuff efficiently (and they get given things)IMO you want to have a decent frame to start with - doesn't have to be especially posh or expensive, but needs to have something going for it, and you need to consider what kind of look you are after. I think often late 80s or earlier 90s MTB's make better candidates for this sort of thing - less racey geo and more adaptable
if you're in the uk something like an old Muddyfox, Saracen, Orange, Ridgeback, GT, Specialized, Marin, Kona, etc - or even a Raleigh if you know what models to look for (someone was selling a nice one the other day on here) - or the obvious old rock hopper/hardrock route though thats' kinda been done to death already
don't expect to get back what you put in if you decide to sell it
bold stelvis
Kona Fan
also - am not saying alu bikes are bad or anything (I have owned a Klein for 26 years!) but I think a steel frame is more what generally suits - so unless you have something specific in mind I would look for steel bikes rather than alu
Buy a complete bike, not a frameset - it will be loads cheaper, and don't get pulled into paying way over the odds (most 'retro' bikes on ebay are massively over priced BIN to what they might actually realistically sell for)
Buy a complete bike, not a frameset - it will be loads cheaper, and don't get pulled into paying way over the odds (most 'retro' bikes on ebay are massively over priced BIN to what they might actually realistically sell for)
bold stelvis
Kona Fan
What model of Raleigh would you consider a good option for this? I've seen a M trax 500 duo tech for sale locally for £50.I would avoid it personally - cheapo aluminium frame just isn't worth the time and investment
Be prepared to spend way too much money
IMO you want to have a decent frame to start with - doesn't have to be especially posh or expensive, but needs to have something going for it, and you need to consider what kind of look you are after. I think often late 80s or earlier 90s MTB's make better candidates for this sort of thing - less racey geo and more adaptable
if you're in the uk something like an old Muddyfox, Saracen, Orange, Ridgeback, GT, Specialized, Marin, Kona, etc - or even a Raleigh if you know what models to look for (someone was selling a nice one the other day on here) - or the obvious old rock hopper/hardrock route though thats' kinda been done to death already
don't expect to get back what you put in if you decide to sell it
I've also found a specialized hard rock for the same price, I'm thinking that would be a better option? I appreciate this is entirely subjective but was just looking for some general advise from people who have more experience.
bold stelvis
Kona Fan
Raleigh M-Trax are good - so are Hardrocks
I dunno man - retromodding is all about what speaks to YOU. I'd choose something I think looks cool personally.
As long as its a decent enough bike that can often come down to paint and graphics as much as anything else
I dunno man - retromodding is all about what speaks to YOU. I'd choose something I think looks cool personally.
As long as its a decent enough bike that can often come down to paint and graphics as much as anything else
bold stelvis
Kona Fan
Condition is obviously also a factor (and components) - and try to get at least roughly the sight size
With the plethora of different geometries and sizing approaches I generally try to go by top tube length (centre to centre, determines approximate reach though this can be adjusted with saddle position and stem/bar choices) and head tube length (taller = higher bars, which my middle aged back appreciates) - you should be able to get a seller to measure these with a tape measure easily enough. Don't trust the sizes given in the descriptions too much, unless they were measured
With the plethora of different geometries and sizing approaches I generally try to go by top tube length (centre to centre, determines approximate reach though this can be adjusted with saddle position and stem/bar choices) and head tube length (taller = higher bars, which my middle aged back appreciates) - you should be able to get a seller to measure these with a tape measure easily enough. Don't trust the sizes given in the descriptions too much, unless they were measured
bold stelvis
Kona Fan
the sales section here is probably the place I would look - take some time to look through postings as its quite normal for ones from a few weeks back to still be available if not sold. Generally more realistic pricing than on ebay and sellers are way more knowledgable about what they are selling which helps!
