Been watching a lot of 2nd life bikes on YouTube lately and fancied giving a Resto Mod a go myself. Had my eye on this Claude Butler Vantage on Facebook market place. Being new to the retro bike seen and I've not really attempted any mechanical wok on a bike before. Was looking for a opinion on whether this bike is a good candidate for a Resto Mod and is there what should I be aware of before attempting this? TIA
Claude Butler Vantage Resto Mod
- Thread starter Nog1988
- Start date
CassidyAce
Senior Retro Guru
Is it a good candidate for a resto mod? It depends on what you want from it. On the one hand, it was a cheap, entry level bike when new and that's not going to change. You should think accordingly when splashing out your cash. On the other hand, if it fits you well, you could get a lot of enjoyment from coasting around the countryside on it and you could learn a lot from doing it up. The benefits will be purely personal.
If I were you, I would first make sure it's safe: the brakes work, the stem and handlebars are securely fitted, the chain doesn't slip as soon as you pedal hard, etc. Then take it for a short ride or two. After that, I would look at the contact points: saddle, grips and pedals. If you're happy with them, good; if not, change them. After that, tyres: cheap, heavy tyres make riding feel like a slog. Something like Schwalbe's Billy Bonkers would work well with this bike and improve the enjoyment.
Avoid the cheapest no-name parts; there are parts that are a step or two above, don't cost much, and generally function well. Things like Clark's Elite brake pads, Charge Spoon saddles, and some Rock Bros pedals are very reasonably priced and are almost certainly worthwhile upgrades over the parts already on the bike. After that, I would consider options that require more skill and/or money, like servicing the hubs and drive train upgrades.
If I were you, I would first make sure it's safe: the brakes work, the stem and handlebars are securely fitted, the chain doesn't slip as soon as you pedal hard, etc. Then take it for a short ride or two. After that, I would look at the contact points: saddle, grips and pedals. If you're happy with them, good; if not, change them. After that, tyres: cheap, heavy tyres make riding feel like a slog. Something like Schwalbe's Billy Bonkers would work well with this bike and improve the enjoyment.
Avoid the cheapest no-name parts; there are parts that are a step or two above, don't cost much, and generally function well. Things like Clark's Elite brake pads, Charge Spoon saddles, and some Rock Bros pedals are very reasonably priced and are almost certainly worthwhile upgrades over the parts already on the bike. After that, I would consider options that require more skill and/or money, like servicing the hubs and drive train upgrades.
bold stelvis
Kona Fan
I would avoid it personally - cheapo aluminium frame just isn't worth the time and investment
Be prepared to spend way too much money
not necessarily on the original bike, but getting something to look the way you want will take more dough than you think. All these Youtube bike guys (Monkeyshred, Alan's Bikes, Old Shovel, etc) have big parts bins and know how to find stuff efficiently (and they get given things)
IMO you want to have a decent frame to start with - doesn't have to be especially posh or expensive, but needs to have something going for it, and you need to consider what kind of look you are after. I think often late 80s or earlier 90s MTB's make better candidates for this sort of thing - less racey geo and more adaptable
if you're in the uk something like an old Muddyfox, Saracen, Orange, Ridgeback, GT, Specialized, Marin, Kona, etc - or even a Raleigh if you know what models to look for (someone was selling a nice one the other day on here) - or the obvious old rock hopper/hardrock route though thats' kinda been done to death already
don't expect to get back what you put in if you decide to sell it
Be prepared to spend way too much money
not necessarily on the original bike, but getting something to look the way you want will take more dough than you think. All these Youtube bike guys (Monkeyshred, Alan's Bikes, Old Shovel, etc) have big parts bins and know how to find stuff efficiently (and they get given things)IMO you want to have a decent frame to start with - doesn't have to be especially posh or expensive, but needs to have something going for it, and you need to consider what kind of look you are after. I think often late 80s or earlier 90s MTB's make better candidates for this sort of thing - less racey geo and more adaptable
if you're in the uk something like an old Muddyfox, Saracen, Orange, Ridgeback, GT, Specialized, Marin, Kona, etc - or even a Raleigh if you know what models to look for (someone was selling a nice one the other day on here) - or the obvious old rock hopper/hardrock route though thats' kinda been done to death already
don't expect to get back what you put in if you decide to sell it
bold stelvis
Kona Fan
also - am not saying alu bikes are bad or anything (I have owned a Klein for 26 years!) but I think a steel frame is more what generally suits - so unless you have something specific in mind I would look for steel bikes rather than alu
Buy a complete bike, not a frameset - it will be loads cheaper, and don't get pulled into paying way over the odds (most 'retro' bikes on ebay are massively over priced BIN to what they might actually realistically sell for)
Buy a complete bike, not a frameset - it will be loads cheaper, and don't get pulled into paying way over the odds (most 'retro' bikes on ebay are massively over priced BIN to what they might actually realistically sell for)
bold stelvis
Kona Fan
