Changing headsets help pls :)

[Monkeeee01]

Hi all,

How do you guys do this at home?

I want to swap a couple of headsets from frame to frame, and it’s one of just a few tasks I end up taking my frames/bikes to the LBS for.

Ideally I’d prefer to be able to do it myself.

I’ve been told you can do with a block of wood and a mallet but I’ve never tried. Also need to remove crown race’s from one set of forks and install on a new one…

Are headset presses easily available and cost effective?

Thanks in advance

 

[Imlach]

I just use a threaded rod with washers

Never had any issues. Did buy the tool to smack them out and filed it flatter to sit better on the cup lip.

 

[Imlach]

I have a cheap version of this for the crown, but I tend to just use a flathead and a hammer with the steerer resting on a block of wood.

 

[jimo746]

You can fit the cups with a block of wood & a hammer, but it's a lot easier & safer with a headset press tool, it doesn't need to be a Park tool one, I think mine is by Lifeline, just make sure whatever you get will fit 1"1/8 (and possibly 1") headset cups.
Likewise removing the cups with a proper cup removal tool like @Imlach posted makes it much easier, and they're relatively cheap to buy.
A crown race removal tool is another thing on my To Buy list, currently I use a hammer & large flat screwdriver, but it's too easy to slip and cause damage to either the bike or yourself, so probably wise to get the right tool for the job.
Look at it as an investment, the tools will last years and save you money in the long run

 

[mk one]

Agree with above, if you are changing headsets regularly then investing in the tools makes life a little easier. Though for 30 yrs or so I used a piece of wood and hammer with exactly the same results, easy enough and quick. Taking them out is easy too, ideally you need to use something like an aluminium dowel as to not damage the cups, but a piece of thick cloth over a flat blade screwdriver works too, just be more careful that the cloth is covering the blade working your way around the cup, no need to whack hard, which you do with the tool. Same for the crown race, gently tap under it with a covered flat blade working your way around every tap, will come off evenly and eventually. Put back on with a mallet, with gentle taps working around, main thing is to keep it level as they get wedged easily at angles.

 

[Monkeeee01]

Thanks everyone. Answers were as I expected really. I should probably buy the right tools for the job…..

 

[stephan]

Crown Race Removal - Using Blades (Wear Protective Clothing At All Times!)

 

[ishaw]

The right tool for the job is always the best solution.

Split races and sealed bearings make life easier, I've even added a split to solid races as it makes no difference when sealed bearings are involved, though you can't do that for caged or loose bearings of course.

Bitd, a screwdriver and hammer were the go to for removal, block of wood and hammer for fitting.

Then I got a bit more sophisticated with fitting, using a big g-clamp and wood to compress it into the frame.

After that, proper tools. A crown race remover (though I did have an interim phase of a filed, blades bit of metal for ease of insertion and leverage), and a cyclist headset press which was spendy, but feels lovely when using. I did graduate to this via threaded bar and washers, which worked, but was a gateway drug.

As headsets got tapered and I needed additional cup size options I bought a cheap (though was anodised) headset press just for the extra cup size presses, turned out to be quite a nice bit of kit for about £15 iirc, well worth the investment, even if you only use it a few times.

 

[Tootyred]

Plumbing pipe to put crown races on. Copper drift (nice and soft bit of copper bar) to take them off.

Threaded rod and two big washers for headset cups in and the same copper drift to knock them out. Copper is soft enough to stop you mullering the cups etc.

 

[novocaine]

Plumbing pipe to put crown races on. Copper drift (nice and soft bit of copper bar) to take them off.

Threaded rod and two big washers for headset cups in and the same copper drift to knock them out. Copper is soft enough to stop you mullering the cups etc.

I have a 10" length of lead pipe for putting races on and a 6" length of 3/4" brass rod for taking them off. the lead pipe only works for 1 1/8" though. it's even got a bit of innertube over it to make it nice to handle.

headset cups are drifted off with big screwy and pressed back on with a record 5 1/2" vice.

(I do have a headset press, but the vice is nice).