Caustic Soda to melt stuck seatpost: COMPLETED!! (see p.2)
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samc
Retro Guru
13":1by75zrc said:so carbon or titanium for the new post??
I've got a lovely battered old Easton EA70 seatpost waiting for this beauty. I know it's aluminium too, but it'll actually fit!
And some Girvin Vectors... a mark 1 HS33 for the front... Club Roost I-Beam stem... it's going to be like mid-range retro mtb porn!
samc
Retro Guru
Whatleymeister":qeglp3q4 said:samc":qeglp3q4 said:
LOL!!! Great videos mate, really enjoyed that
Ta, and yeah I wouldn't recommend it for the accident-prone; I'm pretty good with my hands but I still got the stuff everywhere. Mind you I wasn't that careful...
lewis1641":qeglp3q4 said:
and ya mamma!
Lol yeah it just came out! Haha you know the feeling when you've been trying to fix something for ages and it suddenly works! YEAH!
Aluminium in steel is fine, but copperslip is your friend. Maybe this post hadn't even been greased, but even if it had been, grease is not a very good anti-sieze. The copper granules in copperslip prevent the galling reaction from taking place.samc":25v4ah6r said:
Well done with your project. I think you've done really well to get away with so little paint damage.
sherlylock
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This theory works on removing anodizing from ally parts too. I got stuck in with the "Oven Pride" oven cleaner last night on some old x-lite bar ends. It's a Sodium Hydroxide (caustic soda) based cleaner which is strong enough to degrade and lift the anodising without trashing the ally (I was careful with how long I left them in solution too after seeing the seatpost vids!).
Worked a treat......
Worked a treat......
Attachments
This is the stuff im using to strip stuff.
Il post a pic later
Its called 'Kiwi Kleen'
Bought in Poundland and its a heavy duty drain cleaner containing Sodium nitrate,Sodium hydroxide 52.5%
You get three sachets each one you pour down the drain and add a cup of water
SO THEREFORE Pour one sachet in a cup[because its glazed] and fill up with water.
Gives off Hydrogen and i think oxygen too so no smoking
Piece of string to dip the part into the solution and a basin of cold water to kill the reaction.
Dip the part into the cup of drain cleaner,count to 10 then dip it in the water and swirl it about a bit
As you repeat this process you will see the colour come off into the basin and the part turn a kind of a metallic brown.
I use at that point some autosol on a cloth.no need to wire wool it if it was reasonable to begin with.
I suggest you wear gloves for the polishing process as god only knows what the brown stuff is It's quite hard work doing the polishing so keep at it
I've to strip a CK topcap from green to mach some other CK bits im attempting to make into a nifty pepper grinder(i didnt think a salt shaker was such a good idea
,ill post up some pics of the process to help reassure others its an easy thing to do.
PS
Empty the mix down the drain and knock the handle off the cup so you dont use it for tea :shock: and i dont think i need to remind people not to breath the fumes
Il post a pic later
Its called 'Kiwi Kleen'
Bought in Poundland and its a heavy duty drain cleaner containing Sodium nitrate,Sodium hydroxide 52.5%
You get three sachets each one you pour down the drain and add a cup of water
SO THEREFORE
Pour one sachet in a cup[because its glazed] and fill up with water.Gives off Hydrogen and i think oxygen too so no smoking
Piece of string to dip the part into the solution and a basin of cold water to kill the reaction.
Dip the part into the cup of drain cleaner,count to 10 then dip it in the water and swirl it about a bit
As you repeat this process you will see the colour come off into the basin and the part turn a kind of a metallic brown.
I use at that point some autosol on a cloth.no need to wire wool it if it was reasonable to begin with.
I suggest you wear gloves for the polishing process as god only knows what the brown stuff is
It's quite hard work doing the polishing so keep at it I've to strip a CK topcap from green to mach some other CK bits im attempting to make into a nifty pepper grinder(i didnt think a salt shaker was such a good idea
,ill post up some pics of the process to help reassure others its an easy thing to do.
PS
Empty the mix down the drain and knock the handle off the cup so you dont use it for tea :shock: and i dont think i need to remind people not to breath the fumes
Try cutting it out. To be fair, he didn't have all that much inserted so he could maybe have done it too.mordorf":38w8qat2 said:
This one below, also from a 94 Explosif, was only about 10cm long so it was really quite easy.
Cut to leave 1cm exposed,
Make a first cut using the groove for safety
Make sure you don't quite go right through to the steel, saw straight, no rocking motion
Make a second cut
Force a screwdriver under the strip and prise it away
Clamp the exposed 1cm in a pipe wrench, squeeze it and it'll pull out as easy as you like.
It's only a high friction dust that is stopping it moving, nothing is fused
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samc
Retro Guru
mordorf":3rlexe1a said:
Yeah it's not great for the paint, but I'd do it again it's not that risky.
Don't judge the insert depth by the final video - that's just a sliver from the upper section that remained, the lower stuff was totally dissolved because it was soaked in CS for far longer. I know mine was inserted a good 9-10 inches because I tried cutting too, and got nowhere (I'm not the most patient person in the world!). You're right it'd probably work on smaller inserted depths though; and always worth a try.Anthony":3rlexe1a said:
