Cantilever brakes on suspension fork

[Candygram for Mongo]

Thanks for all the advice, money sent to ishaw for the problem solver. This will at least get the bike functioning to see if it's worth getting one of the canti mounts built (I know a welder who likes building interesting objects).

About the diacompe 287v, I should have said I already have shimano st-2300 levers/24speed shifters - I really wanted the brake/shifter type brake/shifters. If I were to go with the diacompe's, that would solve the v-brake problem but where would the shifters go?

I'd invert your stem too, you want the drops inline or above the saddle

The seat is only that low whilst it's being built. It will be going much higher? Why would you want the bars above the saddle? Here is my road bike (yes, I have lots of bikes), and I find it very comfy like this.

 

[Dead Rats]

because on the road you ride on the hoods, off road you tend to ride in the drops

 

[MikeD]

off road you tend to ride in the drops

That would be personal preference, surely? FWIW yer actual CX racers spend most of the time on the hoods:

Proper steep descents and sprints excepted. So much like a road bike, really. There's certainly a school of thought that puts off-road drops way up high to stay in the drops the whole time, but that's more of a drop-bar MTB thing than a CX thing. CX maybe a whisker higher than road, but no more than that.

 

[barry2017]

About the diacompe 287v, I should have said I already have shimano st-2300 levers/24speed shifters - I really wanted the brake/shifter type brake/shifters. If I were to go with the diacompe's, that would solve the v-brake problem but where would the shifters go?

You may have an issue with getting the front shifter to work with an MTB chainset and mech.

Honestly, I would sell them and get barend shifters. They're always perfect.

 

[Candygram for Mongo]

You may have an issue with getting the front shifter to work with an MTB chainset and mech.

I was under the impression that the spaces & cog width between, say, an 8 speed mtb cassette and an 8 speed road cassette were identical. The difference between the two being that the mtb tend to have more teeth and a larger range of teeth. The same being true of the chainset, except here the road chainset would have more teeth.

Ah, I've just reread your post. It's just the front shifter/mech you're refering to. I guess the above is not true of these, huh?
To be honest, I'd rather replace the chainset/front mech with road ones than use bar end shifters. I love those sti levers

 

[barry2017]

It's worth a go. But depending on the frame, you may get clearance issues running a road chainset and mech on a mountain frame. See if someone could lend you one first.

 

[Rampage]

Is that because of the size of the chainrings?

 

[barry2017]

Can be. Chainstay angle can also be a problem; you might find the chain rubbing the bottom of the cage reducing its capacity, or rubbing against the chainstay.

It is a can of worms.

 

[We_are_Stevo]

Ultegra triple chainset and front mech on my Kilauea in it previous guise...

...my daughter has it now but still running the road kit

IMHO it's not such an 'aesthetically pleasing' build as when it was mine, but she had her own specific requirements for the build.

And yes, I did have to 'dress back' the chain stay a little to get the clearance...

...not that you'd know, even close up

 

[Candygram for Mongo]

For those interested in what became of this build, I came across an alternative cyclocross frame & forks which better suited my needs (not yet complete) so this kona went in a more traditional direction...

Well, it was very nice to ride but I already have a mountain bike and while I like this kona a lot I didn't see this getting a lot of use so I found some more unusual handlebars for it...

Now it is quite happy with my 40 mile daily commute when my mood/weather takes me away from my road bike. Not as fast by any means but a lot more fun
Unfortunately, I still can't answer how well cantilever brakes fair with suspension forks.