Cantilever Brake Masterclass

This thread is lovely. Proof that cantilever users are primarily BDSM enthusiasts with the SM part in bold.
 
That was all rather interesting. Heck I have been lucky over the years, I just "do them" and they work. Now wait until I do the next bike and it will all go to rats!!! :LOL:
 
Have you used Magura before, bled and cut the 'cable'?
Nice to see fate has brought you another on life joys tuning and setting up cup/cone hubs.

That fun went with Hope hubs, at least Suntour made their cartridge bearing adjustable.
 
@FluffyChicken , I nailed the cones first time. Irony. Not a type of metal.

No, I haven’t ever adjusted Magura brakes. I haven’t had to. I don’t think the hose will be forced into a too tight an angle. I know enough to realise I will need a new olive. I was going to get this kit:

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Everything I would need?
 
this is not my experience at all - if they are the correct length the shimano style link cables actually work very well - they really help reduce the amount of slack by setting up better angles in my (admittedly limited) experience in addition to removing the risk of the straddle cable becoming stuck in the tyre if the main cable breaks

I've got the shorter ones (73mm?) and they are pretty much the perfect length on low profile canti arms if the brake block posts are set up so that the blocks hit the rim parallel - I wouldn't want the straddle disk any lower

And that's the point - with so much variation in frame design, canti boss spacing etc, most people have no idea what length they need and the odds are they will get it wrong. The type with a button and a section of outer (whose length can be trimmed) are much better and they avoid the flaw of wheel locking with a fixed wire.
 
Sort of getting there on the front.

that looks not bad

I think for medium profile cantis like these, the way the angles work is a little different and its not so much about getting the straddle as low as possible (as it would be with low profile arms) - more you want the straddle cable and the imaginary line from the straddle connection point at the top of the arm to the brake boss to be as close to a right angle as possible. Looks like you are pretty close to that here👍

with low profile I find you need to have a lot of the brake block post inside the arms to get a nice angle - with wider profiles it might help actually do the opposite - more of the posts showing on the outer side which will bring the arms in slightly.
 
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