Can retro MTBs still be ridden hard?

Running on similar lines to FTO and Greencat, but with an echo of warnings in previous posts re. old aluminum...

My 1x8 96 M2 Stumpjumper was all the bike you need around here in Hampshire, particularly for the balls-to-the-wall lungbuster 1-2hr nightrides that are all I have time for. It got more capable for that kind of riding when I fitted modern rubber, a dropper and halved the stem length - the latter getting rid of recurrent no-warning wash-out incidents where my weight was directly over the steep/shopping-trolley-castor front end. I've only ever ridden three times at trail centres in my life - twice on this, round the red Twrch trail at Cwmcarn and a fair bit of Nant-y-arian. It went from a lot of fun on the flowier, singletracky bits and climbs to seriously unpleasant when I was tired/bricking it on the rocky, jumbled stuff, repeated dropoffs etc.

Around the same time I ran a 1x8 - built up from parts bin - 1992 Eldridge Grade around the SW valleys, doing some mind-focussing ups and downs on natural trails/bridleways across the valley tops etc. I have to say, there is not much (within reason) I wouldn't take on with that bike, especially steeps- I'd take it over the M2 around a trail centre/purpose built modern trails. It has seriously sound, confidence inspiring handling, with modern rubber of course.

The spesh was a stunning, do pretty much everything I want it to, ride - until that wafer thin M2 alloy was loaded one too many times and cracked by the BB earlier this year. Nothing spectacular - just started riding like a clown bike on/after hard climbs. I hop a lot, and hammer along, but nothing wild/jumpy, it simply flexed all the times it was capable of and then no more.

I grabbed a 98 P7 off ebay as a quality contemporaneous steel equivalent and swapped the fork, parts over. That's a pretty tasty woodland whip too - more than capable of handing more modern bikes their ass on a plate around here - but too short in the top tube for me and my stem preference, especially going downwards. So now I'm sampling some c2000 Gary Fisher Genesis geometry for next build - I'm basically evolving my rides in real time, but with a 20yr delay! If the Fisher fits, it'll go until that aluminum also fatigues/I start creaking too much.

I've got a ballooning fixation on longer effective top tube (hence the fisher), as the key to a retro ride's confidence/capability off road - don't have to have the modern geo/slack head angles or suspension for my kind of riding, but putting that weight more behind the front wheel has to makes sense - especially riding hard, and especially on more technical trails (It was GF's rationale for Genesis after he had one too many random OTB incidents, apparently). Added to that is my preference for fast steering, and thus shorter stems.

Of note, I checked the 92' EG's ETT last time I saw it - it's longer than either the M2 or this cramped up Orange (all same nominal/seat tube frame size)...which - obviously - I feel backs up that thinking! Might also be a useful dimension for a newbie/the OP to prioritise when looking to source a retro to hammer on.


Pics of the M2 R.I.P, Marin and P7...total cost of all three is about 10% of 2manyoranges' BfeMax!
stumpy_woods.jpg marin.jpg IMG_20210922_131042465.jpg
 
WHAT DO YOU MEAN “JUST BICYCLES”!!!!!!
WHAT!!!!!??

They are life, meaning, solace, exercise, friendship, they are … everything… (aren’t they….?)

(THM sorry….couldn’t hold back with the shouty capitals…)
 
Running on similar lines to FTO and Greencat, but with an echo of warnings in previous posts re. old aluminum...

My 1x8 96 M2 Stumpjumper was all the bike you need around here in Hampshire, particularly for the balls-to-the-wall lungbuster 1-2hr nightrides that are all I have time for. It got more capable for that kind of riding when I fitted modern rubber, a dropper and halved the stem length - the latter getting rid of recurrent no-warning wash-out incidents where my weight was directly over the steep/shopping-trolley-castor front end. I've only ever ridden three times at trail centres in my life - twice on this, round the red Twrch trail at Cwmcarn and a fair bit of Nant-y-arian. It went from a lot of fun on the flowier, singletracky bits and climbs to seriously unpleasant when I was tired/bricking it on the rocky, jumbled stuff, repeated dropoffs etc.

Around the same time I ran a 1x8 - built up from parts bin - 1992 Eldridge Grade around the SW valleys, doing some mind-focussing ups and downs on natural trails/bridleways across the valley tops etc. I have to say, there is not much (within reason) I wouldn't take on with that bike, especially steeps- I'd take it over the M2 around a trail centre/purpose built modern trails. It has seriously sound, confidence inspiring handling, with modern rubber of course.

The spesh was a stunning, do pretty much everything I want it to, ride - until that wafer thin M2 alloy was loaded one too many times and cracked by the BB earlier this year. Nothing spectacular - just started riding like a clown bike on/after hard climbs. I hop a lot, and hammer along, but nothing wild/jumpy, it simply flexed all the times it was capable of and then no more.

I grabbed a 98 P7 off ebay as a quality contemporaneous steel equivalent and swapped the fork, parts over. That's a pretty tasty woodland whip too - more than capable of handing more modern bikes their ass on a plate around here - but too short in the top tube for me and my stem preference, especially going downwards. So now I'm sampling some c2000 Gary Fisher Genesis geometry for next build - I'm basically evolving my rides in real time, but with a 20yr delay! If the Fisher fits, it'll go until that aluminum also fatigues/I start creaking too much.

I've got a ballooning fixation on longer effective top tube (hence the fisher), as the key to a retro ride's confidence/capability off road - don't have to have the modern geo/slack head angles or suspension for my kind of riding, but putting that weight more behind the front wheel has to makes sense - especially riding hard, and especially on more technical trails (It was GF's rationale for Genesis after he had one too many random OTB incidents, apparently). Added to that is my preference for fast steering, and thus shorter stems.

Of note, I checked the 92' EG's ETT last time I saw it - it's longer than either the M2 or this cramped up Orange (all same nominal/seat tube frame size)...which - obviously - I feel backs up that thinking! Might also be a useful dimension for a newbie/the OP to prioritise when looking to source a retro to hammer on.


Pics of the M2 R.I.P, Marin and P7...total cost of all three is about 10% of 2manyoranges' BfeMax!
View attachment 580847View attachment 580846View attachment 580845
Well you’re not wrong there re the price of the Cotic….!

And I am absolutely with you there on the importance of top tube length - see my ravings on the importance of the long top tube during the late 80s and early 90s on bikes like the Team Marin….
 
WHAT DO YOU MEAN “JUST BICYCLES”!!!!!!
WHAT!!!!!??

They are life, meaning, solace, exercise, friendship, they are … everything… (aren’t they….?)

(THM sorry….couldn’t hold back with the shouty capitals…)
But they are just bicycles. Pedalling along, enjoying the sensation of motion, the wind on your face, taking in the countryside, getting fresh air and exercise . . . Cycling is a simple pleasure but the simple pleasures are the best ones. They're just bicycles, and retro bicycles are simple devices relative to all the technology that the modern world has to offer, but perhaps being 'just bicycles' is part of why they're so great.
 
I can't ride a modern MTB hard, so I've got no chance on a noodley '90s bike with canti brakes.

I think a nicely sorted retro bike is probably the one of the best "do it all" bikes out there - I took my bontrager on a peaks ride that was mostly road with a bit of bridleway action - perfect gravel bike terrain - and it was just right - comfortable and fun.

When I returned to MTB I went out an bought a 150mm FS monster - as that.s what my mates were riding. Over the last few years I've figured out that what I want out of riding is getting into the hills, not adrenaline , so I've now got a light weight short travel FS bike and a hard tail that works(ish) for bike packing.

In fact I'm thinking of chopping that in for something like a karate monkey, which is about as close to a modern retro bike as you can get.
 
Sure, on period correct terrain. Don't try to free ride them or you'll have the same results as the pioneers in the late 90's.
 
My old Krakatoa just keeps going, I replace bits as and when they wear out, it's like Trigger's Broom, interestingly it's still on it's original BB and headset, it's washed after most outings and lubed. It gets ridden hard on trails, toepaths and on roads but tbh never hammered off road, it's never going to be as good as a modern mtb but it's given miles of smiles and owes me nowt
IMG_20210908_105735.jpg
 
My 2p worth is that if they could be ridden hard back in the 90ies they can be ridden hard now surely? Depends on if you want the bike’s suspension and gadgetry to make it easy for you or not

So in other words it’s just easier to ride a modern bike - not that a retro can’t be ‘ridden hard’. Depends on your skill and determination
 
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A lot depends on the skill of the rider. On rough terrain, I could not ride a retro MTB as hard as a modern MTB, but give me a modern MTB and, no doubt, Rachel Atherton would still wipe the floor with me on a rigid retro bike. 🤦‍♂️
 
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