Can I fit V-brakes to my 1993 Saracen?
- Thread starter JohnH
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Perhaps it's a little strange that one side of our handlebars isn't devoted to "front" (mech/brakes) and the other to "rear" (mech/brakes), but rather we split them... :?
Anyway RockiMtn, just to even things up, here's a global division where North Americans are in the minority... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paper_size
Anyway RockiMtn, just to even things up, here's a global division where North Americans are in the minority... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paper_size
Well up until yesterday, I had a length of brake cable running from my bars, along my top tube to my rear V-brake. But it seems that the zip ties holding the cable on have scratched the paint around the top tube to buggery. :evil: Plus, a cable tied to your top tube doesn't look very good. So out came the wire snips to remove the offending ties and force me to think again.
I came back to this thread, had another look thru and found Mattbike's solution...
Seems like a plan! :twisted:
First, I found something that would gently re-direct the steel noodle on my frame; one bit adapter....
...attached to one socket extension.
After some gentle 'encouragement', I did indeed move the frame noodle from pointing at the centreline of the tyre to pointing at the side of the V-brake (blue arrows)...
...and then completed the link using a short piece of outer cable complete with end cap (green arrow) and a flexible V-brake noodle! (pink arrow) I didn't even know that they existed until my LBS told me about them yesterday!
So it works and I'm chuffed. I haven't sorted out the shrink-wrap business yet. I'll probably bother with that once I've seen how this arrangement works out in the wild. Cool!
I came back to this thread, had another look thru and found Mattbike's solution...
Mattbike":3nhp7mbu said:End result
Some heat shrink (available from B&Q) added to keep the mud out. Be carefull of the paint. My thin layer of rattle can paint wasn't able to cope. Next job strip down and powder coat.
Seems like a plan! :twisted:
First, I found something that would gently re-direct the steel noodle on my frame; one bit adapter....
...attached to one socket extension.
After some gentle 'encouragement', I did indeed move the frame noodle from pointing at the centreline of the tyre to pointing at the side of the V-brake (blue arrows)...
...and then completed the link using a short piece of outer cable complete with end cap (green arrow) and a flexible V-brake noodle! (pink arrow) I didn't even know that they existed until my LBS told me about them yesterday!
So it works and I'm chuffed.
I haven't sorted out the shrink-wrap business yet. I'll probably bother with that once I've seen how this arrangement works out in the wild. Cool! 
Corduroyboy
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Everyone":3nrjiadt said:
Lose the rear 'pipe'!
It's only bonded into the stop with a mm or two of tig weld to hold it to the seat-tube. Bend it outwards until the weld is broken, then grab it with some pliers and pull away from the cable stop. It'll come free reasonably easily (just be carefull not to smash yourself in the nads when it frees up! You will be left with an ordinary cable stop to use with a short piece of outer as normal.
I'd be interested in the pipe by the way - I need a canti guide for a Saracen...
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Saracen's are odd indeed, my 1992 has a traditional cable stop, and i've seen later ones with and without that noodle guide you have :?
