Bringing a Pre-War frame into the 20th century.
- Thread starter sandmangts
- Start date
sandmangts
Senior Retro Guru
There is a really good thread about acid etching headbadges here: http://forums.mtbr.com/frame-building/a ... 88806.html
Basically you just get some aluminum, brass or copper sheet that is thin enough to bend easy and a laser printer with photo paper or toner transfer paper which is pretty expensive. I just used photo paper. You make your design and print it. Then you take the printed design and tape it to the metal and use a hot iron to heat it up and melt the laser toner which will then stick to the metal. You soak it so the paper pulls away and leaves the design on the metal. This laser toner is resistant to the acid so when you soak it the acid eats into the metal leaving the design raised. After the design is etched in you just paint it and then use wet 1500 grit sandpaper to remove the paint from the raised area. Then shoot some clear coat on it to make it shine. There is alot of info in that link including paper to buy, what acid to use etc. I used Red Devil lye to etch mine which was done in aluminum. For Copper or brass you can use PCB Etch available at Radio Shack.
It is a fun project but be sure to wear a respirator or do it outdoors with a fan. The PCB etch has very little odor but if you breath it your lungs will pay. And Red Devil lye will burn your skin right off. It is the same stuff that comes in Drano and other drain cleaners. You can also use it to make pickles!
Basically you just get some aluminum, brass or copper sheet that is thin enough to bend easy and a laser printer with photo paper or toner transfer paper which is pretty expensive. I just used photo paper. You make your design and print it. Then you take the printed design and tape it to the metal and use a hot iron to heat it up and melt the laser toner which will then stick to the metal. You soak it so the paper pulls away and leaves the design on the metal. This laser toner is resistant to the acid so when you soak it the acid eats into the metal leaving the design raised. After the design is etched in you just paint it and then use wet 1500 grit sandpaper to remove the paint from the raised area. Then shoot some clear coat on it to make it shine. There is alot of info in that link including paper to buy, what acid to use etc. I used Red Devil lye to etch mine which was done in aluminum. For Copper or brass you can use PCB Etch available at Radio Shack.
It is a fun project but be sure to wear a respirator or do it outdoors with a fan. The PCB etch has very little odor but if you breath it your lungs will pay. And Red Devil lye will burn your skin right off. It is the same stuff that comes in Drano and other drain cleaners. You can also use it to make pickles!
After having watched this thread from a distance, I feel I have to may a comment now that the end result has been reached. I have to admit that I'm not a great fan of building bikes (or motorbikes) out of parts from diferent eras. This mainly down to the fact that most of these builds are not very good! Especially the motorbikes, but that's another story.
However, what you have created here looks so great, and is so appealing that if it were available as a new bike, it would be the only new bike which I would consider buying!
Simply brilliant, well done!
However, what you have created here looks so great, and is so appealing that if it were available as a new bike, it would be the only new bike which I would consider buying!
Simply brilliant, well done!
sandmangts
Senior Retro Guru
Thanks. With builds like this it is important to have a plan and a vision for the bike. Never start a build without a specific goal. I have made that mistake in the past and it ends up getting costly. I agree with you, some bikes you just don't mess with. I have seen some truly rotten things done to some really cool bikes. Just go to Ratrodbikes.com. Some of the builds there are brilliant and many of them are truly horrible. One guy on there took a 38 schwinn Excelsior that had really decent original paint and drilled holes in it to make it a whizzer. To me if you want to mod an old frame you pick one that is solid but not in original condition, like the rusted out POS this thing started as.andyz":312bb9gv said:
sandmangts
Senior Retro Guru
I guess the next project will be the Mini version. This is a 24 inch Montgomery Ward kids bike. My boy is still too small to ride it but I figure it will make a good solid bike for him. I am going to build it with modern bmx parts.
Just read this from start to finish - absolutely inspiring stuff. 
Looking at the end result (what is it about mud that improves the look of our bikes so much?) and then the rusty old gate you started with, the difference is astonishing. I've just been scrubbing away at surface rust on a 1990 Kona - the state of your frame to begin with beggars belief...
Looking at the end result (what is it about mud that improves the look of our bikes so much?) and then the rusty old gate you started with, the difference is astonishing. I've just been scrubbing away at surface rust on a 1990 Kona - the state of your frame to begin with beggars belief...sandmangts
Senior Retro Guru
Still going strong. Took it out to Tahoe, Mammoth mountain and the backside of Yosemite this week. 
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