Anyone rebuilt a Shimano rear mech?
- Thread starter ishaw
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Re:
No, that won't work. The pin isn't threaded in, so even if you could get an easy-out into the end of the pin, it would just spin the pin around in the hole.
Will you be using the top half of one mech and the bottom half of another?
If so, you could possibly cut away the bottom half of the mech which has a good top half, using a dremel to cut/grind away the inner parts of the parallogram. This would leave you with the top half with the pins exposed. You could then try clamping some small mole grips onto the exposed centre of the pins and tapping on the grips to drive the pin out of the open end.
Alternatively, you could try removing the deformations around the hole on the open end. You could try a flat bottomed drill, like this: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/twist-drills/s ... lat-bottom, which is expensive. Alternatively, you could buy a cheap drill bit and grind the end flat, it only needs to cut soft alluminium, so a cheap bit will be fine and likely easier to grind flat.
No, that won't work. The pin isn't threaded in, so even if you could get an easy-out into the end of the pin, it would just spin the pin around in the hole.
Will you be using the top half of one mech and the bottom half of another?
If so, you could possibly cut away the bottom half of the mech which has a good top half, using a dremel to cut/grind away the inner parts of the parallogram. This would leave you with the top half with the pins exposed. You could then try clamping some small mole grips onto the exposed centre of the pins and tapping on the grips to drive the pin out of the open end.
Alternatively, you could try removing the deformations around the hole on the open end. You could try a flat bottomed drill, like this: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/twist-drills/s ... lat-bottom, which is expensive. Alternatively, you could buy a cheap drill bit and grind the end flat, it only needs to cut soft alluminium, so a cheap bit will be fine and likely easier to grind flat.
Re: Re:
On one you aren't going to reuse the body drill and punch it out as described, on the other one if you can drill into the pin you may be able to extract it with and easy our but you do run the risk of pin damage, worst come to the worst you can drill and punch it like the other mech though..
Carl.
ishaw":2510zpqp said:
On one you aren't going to reuse the body drill and punch it out as described, on the other one if you can drill into the pin you may be able to extract it with and easy our but you do run the risk of pin damage, worst come to the worst you can drill and punch it like the other mech though..
Carl.
Re:
Nah, you want something like stub (that's 100c6 steel, much harder than nails, rectified to within 1.5 microns of nominal Ø iirc) is cheap and easy to get hold of in various diameters. Really, that's gonna be easily hard enough. I can get, for example, 2mm stub at 2,5€/metre.
If it's a funky size, you need to find someone with a lathe to make you new pins.
Realistically, though, drill and punch 'em out as suggested in the first reply. Forget easy outs, they are neither easy nor will they get anything out.
Nah, you want something like stub (that's 100c6 steel, much harder than nails, rectified to within 1.5 microns of nominal Ø iirc) is cheap and easy to get hold of in various diameters. Really, that's gonna be easily hard enough. I can get, for example, 2mm stub at 2,5€/metre.
If it's a funky size, you need to find someone with a lathe to make you new pins.
Realistically, though, drill and punch 'em out as suggested in the first reply. Forget easy outs, they are neither easy nor will they get anything out.
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