Anyone got a neat trick for removing gear cable from Campag

rjsdavis

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....down-tube shifters?

I'm guessing that these gear cables have been in situ since 1987. It's not clear whether they're Shimano headed cables that are stuck because they're too big, or that they've simply corroded solid into place over the years. Either way, they're stuck solid.

I'm trying to avoid drilling the cable heads out, and wiggling them from the cable ends with pliers isn't having any joy either. Any tricks to get these little blighters out?

Many thanks
 
penetrating oil?

wiggling may not help.


pushing keeping the cable straight as possible should be able to transmit quite a bit of force in the appropriate direction especially if you hold the cable pretty close to the gear lever. maybe something like molegrips so the force is concentrated on pushing the cable back up rather that having to grip the cable like with pliers.

i guess is it that combination of alloy and steel causing a reaction like you can have with the seat post.


let us know how you get on, will see what others say.

Drilling could be tricky as the levers are going to be much softer and easier to damage than the steel cable .
 
Re:

Never tried it, but how about breaking/cutting the cable off where it exits the lever and then using a hammer and a small nail to punch it out from the underside

Disclaimer ... Don't blame me if it goes titsup. You won't have anythng to hold once you cut the cable
 
I had a similar problem with a Suntour lever and it's original cable, but after weeks of trying pretty much everything above plus also heating it, eventually gave up and very carefully drilled it out with a pillar drill.
 
Had the very same problem with some Simplex; left them in a jar of oil, forgot about them, came back and poked them out with a decent pointy bradawl
 
tpjm191":3vuswzbm said:
penetrating oil?

wiggling may not help.


pushing keeping the cable straight as possible should be able to transmit quite a bit of force in the appropriate direction especially if you hold the cable pretty close to the gear lever. maybe something like molegrips so the force is concentrated on pushing the cable back up rather that having to grip the cable like with pliers.

i guess is it that combination of alloy and steel causing a reaction like you can have with the seat post.


let us know how you get on, will see what others say.

Drilling could be tricky as the levers are going to be much softer and easier to damage than the steel cable .

Thanks - I should hsve added in the OP that I have been soaking them regularly with an alternating cycle of Crack-It, GT-85 and WD40.

I suspect it's pretty similar to an alloy seatpin in a steel frame, but you just can't get the twisting purchase to break the corrosion bond.
 
Re: Cable removal

I have pretty much used methods mentioned previously, but I add another step:
1) I heat up substantially, amount depends on whether or not the unit is still mounted on the bike; to avoid damage; while also incorporating penetrating oil which will act better due to increased capillary action from the heat; taking care not to burn down the flat!
2) If not mounted; put in the icebox for 15-30 minutes or so (have half a pint while waiting!). If mounted; pour ice water over the affected area(s) until thoroughly chilled. Do the cooling while the unit is still hot; the rapid cooling and contraction of the two surfaces after being suitably expanded from the heating should cause enough of a difference that "breaks the weld" between the surfaces since they will not expand and contract at the exact same rates. Add a drop or two more of oil whilst still chilled, and before letting unit get back to room temp (finish other half o' pint!), and then try to twist and wiggle again. It is rare that I have to do this procedure twice, but you might want to have a spare pint on hand just in case!

Ride fast, be Safe,
HPL
 
tpjm191":37gfhc60 said:
So frustrating!

a pic would be great - although not help you in the slightest

You're right - it wouldn't have helped me in the least, however, funnily enough - it did.

Whilst I was taking the attached pic, I rested them on the vice. It occurred to me, that the vice might be a better bet than the mole grips - and it turned out that clamping the stuck cable, so that the lever was about a cm (so that the cable doesn't have too much chance to flex) above the vice clamps, then holding the cable dead straight and pushing down hard against the vice in a downward movement, eventually forced the coroded bond free. Took about 15-20 mins to get each one out, but at least they eventually came out.

Turns out that the heads were small, so were Campag cables, and it was the 30+ years of corrosion that was the problem! Success. These are nice levers, so I'd have been gutted to have to have binned or written them off.
 

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