Anybody here a good car mechanic? Help!

Suzuki dealer that can't diagnose it's own cars, quality.

Phone up some independent garages and ask them if it's supported on their diagnostic equipment, Thatcham Integrated Diagnostics supports it but it's expensive to keep up to date so lots of garages don't subscribe.

A lot of garages rely so heavily on diagnostics they can't be arsed to diagnose jack without it, in reality that car is so basic it should be easy to sort.
 
Skeelsie":1vbprzy1 said:
Suzuki dealer that can't diagnose it's own cars, quality.

yeah I thought that :roll:

tried an autoelectrics specialist and they couldn't get in.

how hard can it be to get into a 10 year old car :evil:
 
This is why I don't like modern cars. There was a time (and given I drive 80's BMW's that time is still now for me) when diagnosing electrical problems meant pulling out the mulitmeter and working through the problem methodically. I suppose now resistance values for various components are not published now as that all a code reader does, read the ECU which has monitered the resistances of various components. The ECU is a glorified multimeter.

While the MAF sensor and O2 sensors certaininly can cause the problems the OP identified you would likely see poorler fuel economy especially with a O2 sensor. Faulty coilpack can cause hicupping as well and general poor running under load. HT leads in poor consition can also lead to these problems.

Once I bought new leads for my now dead BMW, the aftermarket ones did not fit properly and the new BREMI (the dealer supplies these aas well) ones cauased the car to splutter, replacing them with BOSCH leads in good condition cured the problem.

Check the following;
HT leads
spark plugs
coilpack (resistance specs for this will need to be found and break out the multimeter)
O2 sensor check for corrosion in the plug (resistance specs for this will need to be found and break out the multimeter)
MAP or MAF sensor depending on what you have.
 
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