Any preferences?

[Norwood42]

Length of frame dictates fit (given period geometry and style).
A 22" toptube is m/l (usually 19") often suiting a rider 5'10-6'
17" frane size is usually 21.5" tt of this period.
Toptube measurement is usually horizontal c to c, casks "virtual toptube"

Thanks but could you translate that for a novice?

 

[Norwood42]

So it isn’t a 17’’ frame you mean?

 

[CassidyAce]

So it isn’t a 17’’ frame you mean?

Some manufacturers measured frame size from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube (c-t) and others measured from the centre of the bottom bracket to the centre of where the top tube (tt) meets the seat tube (c-c). If I remember correctly, Marin did the latter, so a 17" Marin could be about 19" if measured to the top of the seat tube. The top tube on a 17" (c-c) 1995 Pine Mountain is 57 or 58 cm (I can't remember which and I no longer have the bike).

The horizontal measurement is the top tube measurement from the centre of the head tube to the centre of the seat tube. (Now that most top tubes are sloping, the measurement for a 'virtual' horizontal top tube is more often quoted.) Entry level bikes tended to have slightly shorter top tubes, giving a more relaxed riding position; higher end, racier bikes tended to be a little longer, giving a longer and lower position.

 

[Norwood42]

Some manufacturers measured frame size from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube (c-t) and others measured from the centre of the bottom bracket to the centre of where the top tube (tt) meets the seat tube (c-c). If I remember correctly, Marin did the latter, so a 17" Marin could be about 19" if measured to the top of the seat tube. The top tube on a 17" (c-c) 1995 Pine Mountain is 57 or 58 cm (I can't remember which and I no longer have the bike).

The horizontal measurement is the top tube measurement from the centre of the head tube to the centre of the seat tube. (Now that most top tubes are sloping, the measurement for a 'virtual' horizontal top tube is more often quoted.) Entry level bikes tended to have slightly shorter top tubes, giving a more relaxed riding position; higher end, racier bikes tended to be a little longer, giving a longer and lower position.

Hello! Thanks for the info and also boohoo! Gutted so yeah the Marin prob is too big for me unfortunately. Why can’t bike manufacturers just make things to a single standard way so everyone knows where they stand

 

[Tootyred]

Fyi...its about 1.5" on top. So 17" marin measurement c to c, will be 18.5" c to top.

Unless you have short arms to body or your after a bike for xc racing, i wouldn't be put off by going a size up....for general use they can be more comfortable.

The smallest they made was 15" ...so your 17" is a medium.

Ask the height at mid top tube to floor....if you can stand over ok, then its all good.

 

[bikeworkshop]

So it isn’t a 17’’ frame you mean?

The frame size is ultimately what the manufacturer printed on the box it was delivered to the shop in

We see bikes where the frame size doesn't correspond to anything you can measure on the frame but more and more brands now say s,m,l so that's a bit easier.

It's easier to make a bike that's a little big ride ok compared to one that's a bit small.
I would guess that 17 would be ok for a rider 5'6 to 5'9.

Remember, buy the one you prefer, not the one you think is better.
I know this is the better tactic.

 

[Woz]

Don't buy any bike the wrong size to actually ride. Rule numero uno.

All the amount of love / hope from distant gods on the planet will never make it work out.

 

[Woz]

From experience, Marins come up large with a fairly long tube.

Don't buy a bike without finding a geometry chart before. Any reputable maker published one. The archive here is a resource to help,

When buying second hand demand actual measurements to compare and be sure.