Wanted Any old fork - want the steerer 1"
- Thread starter gilmo789
- Start date
novocaine
Old School Grand Master
I might have something. Let me see what's in "not quite scrap"pile
I guess id be looking for something with 15-20cm un-threaded
chickendrumsticks
Senior Retro Guru
Sorry to be nosey, but why do you want a bit of steerer tube? Tell me to mind my own business if you want...
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Here you go...I have loose 1" steerers as follows:
320mm unthreaded
270mm threaded, with 215 below thread
180mm threaded with 125 below thread
Yes, you can extend a steerer, too. I prefer to braze mine, rather than TIG welding like Paul Brodie, but the process and result is pretty similar.
This is the easier approach if you have a fork with a brazed-in steerer. Also for press-fit or clamped steerers that have a bulge for the headset crown race seat.
It's only really the more exotic modular/composite forks, (Pace, Bontrager, Tange etc) which have a straight OD steerer and a separate crown race.
All the best,
320mm unthreaded
270mm threaded, with 215 below thread
180mm threaded with 125 below thread
Yes, you can extend a steerer, too. I prefer to braze mine, rather than TIG welding like Paul Brodie, but the process and result is pretty similar.
This is the easier approach if you have a fork with a brazed-in steerer. Also for press-fit or clamped steerers that have a bulge for the headset crown race seat.
It's only really the more exotic modular/composite forks, (Pace, Bontrager, Tange etc) which have a straight OD steerer and a separate crown race.
All the best,
that's very cool.
Mine is an old 531 fork (the bike is one of these but all blue and no chrome and I do use it for CX)
If you don't mind, can I ask...?
did you drill multiple holes for flowing in the brass?
Could you use silver?
Did you chamfer/bevel the tubes under that brass ring?
Where did you get the 7/8" tube?
-Does the thickness matter?
-Does it need to be Hi-ten or would mild do in this instance
Mine is an old 531 fork (the bike is one of these but all blue and no chrome and I do use it for CX)
If you don't mind, can I ask...?
did you drill multiple holes for flowing in the brass?
Could you use silver?
Did you chamfer/bevel the tubes under that brass ring?
Where did you get the 7/8" tube?
-Does the thickness matter?
-Does it need to be Hi-ten or would mild do in this instance
Yes, the small holes either side of the joint are feed holes, with matching ones on the other side of the tube.
Feed into the hole and draw it around until visible in the other side, then draw and fill any gaps around the main join line.
Since it's all capilliary work, I generally use silver anyway, 40% usually SIF#39, no point in wasting 56% silver rods.
Could be done with brass/bronze, but I prefer to leep it as cool as possible... and often there's paint that needs to be preserved on the crown or blades.
The 7/8" internal splice is 40mm long, 20mm either side of the joint. I use cold drawn seamless 4130 cromo, 0.049" wall, since I have that in stock. It seems like a good idea to roughly match the properties of the steel parts,, but I don't imagine mild steel would cause any problems, since it's the filler material in shear that's doing the.real work.
The tubes are kept square edged at the joint to help the capilliary action. I just deburr the inside edges, but leave the outside snaggy, since that helps stop the filler from running out too freely onto the outside of the tube. Just file it back to the surface when finished.
The joint in the picture looks a bit wide, usually it's maybe less than 0.5mm, but sometimes the steerer tubes have less consistent or even walls than the cold drawn seamless, so their profiles don't match perfectly.
All the best,
Feed into the hole and draw it around until visible in the other side, then draw and fill any gaps around the main join line.
Since it's all capilliary work, I generally use silver anyway, 40% usually SIF#39, no point in wasting 56% silver rods.
Could be done with brass/bronze, but I prefer to leep it as cool as possible... and often there's paint that needs to be preserved on the crown or blades.
The 7/8" internal splice is 40mm long, 20mm either side of the joint. I use cold drawn seamless 4130 cromo, 0.049" wall, since I have that in stock. It seems like a good idea to roughly match the properties of the steel parts,, but I don't imagine mild steel would cause any problems, since it's the filler material in shear that's doing the.real work.
The tubes are kept square edged at the joint to help the capilliary action. I just deburr the inside edges, but leave the outside snaggy, since that helps stop the filler from running out too freely onto the outside of the tube. Just file it back to the surface when finished.
The joint in the picture looks a bit wide, usually it's maybe less than 0.5mm, but sometimes the steerer tubes have less consistent or even walls than the cold drawn seamless, so their profiles don't match perfectly.
All the best,
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