27motorhead
Old School Grand Master
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A.
B. 100% agree, such lovely bikes
C.
Do you have a build thread for this? Looks like there's some interesting component choices going on! 
91 Team Marin...all road tourer?!
- Thread starter Tootyred
- Start date
B. 100% agree, such lovely bikes
C.
Do you have a build thread for this? Looks like there's some interesting component choices going on! 27motorhead
Old School Grand Master
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That colour looks super yummy! It's like it's radio active!Not wishing to pervert this thread, but yes imho. As far as i was shown years ago, setting up is bike is a fairly simple process but you need to follow a method. However, this was pre computers, digital slow mo cameras and 28 million pages of internet space dedicated to varying philosophies and arguments! I don't really want to add to that.
My route is pretty simple and works for me.....that's it ....and despite having serious back problems im still riding plenty of miles.
1. Put the bars roughly where you want them.....i assume your not 19, you have a bad back and your not racing the Norba series....so lets start grips level with the saddle top
2. Roughly set saddle height and tilt. I use the heel method then tweek from there later.
3. Set your position over the crank, so set saddle fore/ aft. Too far forward you will be all on your thighs....too far back and you will do your knees in. Aim for smooth full rotation. Try riding almost full effort, are you bumping the bottom of the rotation? Can you still pull up on the back stroke? Are you using all your muscles? If not move it a bit 5mm is plenty, try again....
4. Now adjust the saddle hight again, as moving back/ forwards changes the height a bit.
5. Then adjust your length via the stem / bars. Aim for slightly bent elbows and the ability to see where you going without twisting your neck up too much. Your spine is strangely all one bit.....pulling one bit effects the rest. Ive lost count the number of peoples bikes ive "fixed" purely by putting the stem up! Or swapping for a 20mm shorter ahead. I keep a few old cheapo stems of different sizes just for try out purposes.
I tend to drop my stem as low as I feel i can sensibly go, ride for a few hours and see how it feels. If I've got back ache from the bend I jam another 5mm on.
There is a point where you could end up too upright and actually be adding weight to yout spine....but im my humble experience your unlikely to get to that angle on an mtb!
Marins have a very upright seat tube compared with say a rocky mountain. Putting in a straight seatpost will certainly bring you closer to the bars and straighten your back upwards, but then your not in the right position to pedal, which will create you a whole new set of back, hip, leg issues. Yes, there is a fair margin you can get away with, for instance if you have wrist issues, push back as far as you dare, to lighten your grip. But, you need to stay in the zone that allows you to pedal efficiency and comfortably. I have used a minimal set back post once, but that was with a specific saddle that had some very odd characteristics.....my position over the crank stayed where it normally was...
The other issue with marins were they were designed long. My 20.5" has a 600mm top tube and came with a 10o x 150mm stem! Im now on a 25o x 110mm. Basically 2" further back...PLUS 4" further up than my mid 20s self! Bars are 30mm higher than saddle at the grip centre......But it means i can ride for hours and im comfortable. Yes, it looks a bit funky, but its that or not ride....I know which I'm going to live with!
View attachment 856251
sadly no build thread as its kinda always been about.....
But i did do this for my botm entry as no build thread...
https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/33-years-with-a-team-marin.450216/
Grainy old pictures are us.!
But i did do this for my botm entry as no build thread...
https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/33-years-with-a-team-marin.450216/
Grainy old pictures are us.!
27motorhead
Old School Grand Master
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Like a tasteful TVR!!!
Stanflashm4n
Old School Hero
Thanks , that’s really helpful. Sorry for derailing your thread. Your bike looks great, this is what I’m aiming for! Nice that you’ve got a runway to test it on too hahaNot wishing to pervert this thread, but yes imho. As far as i was shown years ago, setting up is bike is a fairly simple process but you need to follow a method. However, this was pre computers, digital slow mo cameras and 28 million pages of internet space dedicated to varying philosophies and arguments! I don't really want to add to that.
My route is pretty simple and works for me.....that's it ....and despite having serious back problems im still riding plenty of miles.
1. Put the bars roughly where you want them.....i assume your not 19, you have a bad back and your not racing the Norba series....so lets start grips level with the saddle top
2. Roughly set saddle height and tilt. I use the heel method then tweek from there later.
3. Set your position over the crank, so set saddle fore/ aft. Too far forward you will be all on your thighs....too far back and you will do your knees in. Aim for smooth full rotation. Try riding almost full effort, are you bumping the bottom of the rotation? Can you still pull up on the back stroke? Are you using all your muscles? If not move it a bit 5mm is plenty, try again....
4. Now adjust the saddle hight again, as moving back/ forwards changes the height a bit.
5. Then adjust your length via the stem / bars. Aim for slightly bent elbows and the ability to see where you going without twisting your neck up too much. Your spine is strangely all one bit.....pulling one bit effects the rest. Ive lost count the number of peoples bikes ive "fixed" purely by putting the stem up! Or swapping for a 20mm shorter ahead. I keep a few old cheapo stems of different sizes just for try out purposes.
I tend to drop my stem as low as I feel i can sensibly go, ride for a few hours and see how it feels. If I've got back ache from the bend I jam another 5mm on.
There is a point where you could end up too upright and actually be adding weight to yout spine....but im my humble experience your unlikely to get to that angle on an mtb!
Marins have a very upright seat tube compared with say a rocky mountain. Putting in a straight seatpost will certainly bring you closer to the bars and straighten your back upwards, but then your not in the right position to pedal, which will create you a whole new set of back, hip, leg issues. Yes, there is a fair margin you can get away with, for instance if you have wrist issues, push back as far as you dare, to lighten your grip. But, you need to stay in the zone that allows you to pedal efficiency and comfortably. I have used a minimal set back post once, but that was with a specific saddle that had some very odd characteristics.....my position over the crank stayed where it normally was...
The other issue with marins were they were designed long. My 20.5" has a 600mm top tube and came with a 10o x 150mm stem! Im now on a 25o x 110mm. Basically 2" further back...PLUS 4" further up than my mid 20s self! Bars are 30mm higher than saddle at the grip centre......But it means i can ride for hours and im comfortable. Yes, it looks a bit funky, but its that or not ride....I know which I'm going to live with!
View attachment 856251
That's what passes as a rood round ere bor.
But there being bugger all traffic makes up for it!
Last edited:
Frames gone into powder, chose a metallic ral as close to the one on a mates 88 pine i borrowed for the purpose!
Its probably not catalogue as his frame has probably faded a bit, but it should be close.
Forks are already done as they went in with a load of black items a couple of months ago.
I was going to convert the forks to ahead like above above, I even had Gav @August Bicycles all ready to go....then i had a bit of an epiphany on how to handle this one. So a change of tack...probably a heap more work for Gav, but he loves a challenge...
...watch this space.
Next issue is deciding on a groupset/ parts to use. Im a bit torn between going modern (in my terms 97ish) or old skool (89 ish). Xtii would certainly look the part on the frame and add to the illusion, but im wondering if the advantages of rapid fire and V brakes, might sway me....especially on a longer distance, light luggage bike.
I don't know, I'm hoping inspiration will strike when thr frames back, I've worked out the decals and the forks are back in!
The joy of a polished cantilever.....
Or the power of a V brake.....
I just dont know!
Its probably not catalogue as his frame has probably faded a bit, but it should be close.
Forks are already done as they went in with a load of black items a couple of months ago.
I was going to convert the forks to ahead like above above, I even had Gav @August Bicycles all ready to go....then i had a bit of an epiphany on how to handle this one. So a change of tack...probably a heap more work for Gav, but he loves a challenge...
...watch this space. Next issue is deciding on a groupset/ parts to use. Im a bit torn between going modern (in my terms 97ish) or old skool (89 ish). Xtii would certainly look the part on the frame and add to the illusion, but im wondering if the advantages of rapid fire and V brakes, might sway me....especially on a longer distance, light luggage bike.
I don't know, I'm hoping inspiration will strike when thr frames back, I've worked out the decals and the forks are back in!
The joy of a polished cantilever.....
Or the power of a V brake.....
I just dont know!
27motorhead
Old School Grand Master
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So is Gav making you a quill stem or even a stem/bar combo? 
Looking forward to seeing what materialises on this one...
I'm a cantilever and thumbies fan, but can appreciate V's and Rapidfire. What about internal hub gears and discs, you'd have kept Gav even busier!!!
Looking forward to seeing what materialises on this one...I'm a cantilever and thumbies fan, but can appreciate V's and Rapidfire. What about internal hub gears and discs, you'd have kept Gav even busier!!!
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