90s MTB Touring: drop bars or bar ends?
- Thread starter RadNomad
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Titiritero
Retro Guru
Re:
As above, I’d go for the bar-end route. I’ve tried both, and flat bars are much cheaper, and way less hassle than going drops and then having to change virtually everything.
Drop bar for touring is popular in English speaking countries, I believe an inheritance from the 70’s British “touring” bikes, which were just road bikes with practical stuff like racks and mudguards. However, in Continental Europe, drop bars are the exception, and most people tour with flat bars or “butterfly” bars. Sure, not as aerodynamic (who cares if you are riding at 15 km/h with 4 big square boxes hanging from your frame) and slightly less hand positions (not so much if using butterfly bars). Everything else is to the advantage of flat bars: cheaper everything (shifters, grips, brake levers…), easier to find parts, less incompatibility problems (road vs mtb components don’t always mix and match well), etc.
In conclusion, go with flat bars, add bar ends, and if you want extra comfort, get some Ergon grips (or similar from cheaper brands) and a higher & shorter stem to adapt your geometry to touring position, plenty of models to choose from brands like Ergotec, they look goofy but are super-comfy. Early 90’s bikes are known for very long top tubes, even longer stems, and relatively low and narrow bars, not the best for long hours in the saddle.
As above, I’d go for the bar-end route. I’ve tried both, and flat bars are much cheaper, and way less hassle than going drops and then having to change virtually everything.
Drop bar for touring is popular in English speaking countries, I believe an inheritance from the 70’s British “touring” bikes, which were just road bikes with practical stuff like racks and mudguards. However, in Continental Europe, drop bars are the exception, and most people tour with flat bars or “butterfly” bars. Sure, not as aerodynamic (who cares if you are riding at 15 km/h with 4 big square boxes hanging from your frame) and slightly less hand positions (not so much if using butterfly bars). Everything else is to the advantage of flat bars: cheaper everything (shifters, grips, brake levers…), easier to find parts, less incompatibility problems (road vs mtb components don’t always mix and match well), etc.
In conclusion, go with flat bars, add bar ends, and if you want extra comfort, get some Ergon grips (or similar from cheaper brands) and a higher & shorter stem to adapt your geometry to touring position, plenty of models to choose from brands like Ergotec, they look goofy but are super-comfy. Early 90’s bikes are known for very long top tubes, even longer stems, and relatively low and narrow bars, not the best for long hours in the saddle.
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As above.
Custom 29er tourer.
Custom 29er tourer.
I rode the US Pacific coast on a Marin Palisades with bar ends and new wheels being the only mods from standard. It's fine.
However, I still have the frame and it has spent the past 20+ years with drops. They give you more hand positions plus the option of getting lower for downhills or punching into a headwind. The hand positions are more natural and comfortable (for me at least) and I don't get numb hands or pins and needles which I do with flat bars.
On-One Marys are a big improvement over conventional flat bars as the hand position is vastly improved. I use them on the tandem where wider bars are far less tiring on the arms for muscling the thing round turns.
On frame suitability I'd disagree very slightly. 1990-1993ish are OK, definitely from mid-90s they get too long. Lower-end frames are shorter in the top tube and have the added advantage of a heavier frame which is better suited to loading up. But definitely avoid that lovely late-90s Tange Prestige racing frame! Marin Palisades / Bear Valley, Specialized Rockhopper, Kona Fire Mountain all make very nice touring conversions. If it's a tie, go with any 7-speed one as the rear wheel has less dish and builds up stronger.
However, I still have the frame and it has spent the past 20+ years with drops. They give you more hand positions plus the option of getting lower for downhills or punching into a headwind. The hand positions are more natural and comfortable (for me at least) and I don't get numb hands or pins and needles which I do with flat bars.
On-One Marys are a big improvement over conventional flat bars as the hand position is vastly improved. I use them on the tandem where wider bars are far less tiring on the arms for muscling the thing round turns.
On frame suitability I'd disagree very slightly. 1990-1993ish are OK, definitely from mid-90s they get too long. Lower-end frames are shorter in the top tube and have the added advantage of a heavier frame which is better suited to loading up. But definitely avoid that lovely late-90s Tange Prestige racing frame! Marin Palisades / Bear Valley, Specialized Rockhopper, Kona Fire Mountain all make very nice touring conversions. If it's a tie, go with any 7-speed one as the rear wheel has less dish and builds up stronger.
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