8Freight Cargo bike - restoration / project

[Jonny69]

Left side is Uniglide/Hyperglide compatible + the old little bit of threading at the end, Right is newer style Hyperglide. 7-speed cassette will fit on the newer one (+ a shim between the spokes and backside of cassette), but the 8-speed cassette will NOT fit on the older one because the cassette is wider than the old freehub body. Sprocket spacing between each other and within a 7-speed and 8-speed cassette are the same.

The only way to use the Uniglide/Hyperglide freehub and get 8-speeds is to sort of build your own cassette using a 10-speed cassette with the much narrower spacing between sprockets and the slightly narrower sprockets. Though, this may be cost prohibitive to get the gearing you want as it may take two 10-speed cassettes, or buying individually. Or alternatively (and maaaaaaybe) you can use the 8-spd cassette with 10 or 11 spd spacers so as long as your overall width is the same for that old freehub.

That's not quite correct. They're both HG freehubs because as the others said there's no external thread. The 7-speed Uniglide/Hyperglide compatible freehub looks like this:





See it has the external UG thread as well as the internal HG thread and has one narrow spline for the HG cassette.

You can put 8 speeds on this freehub by using a 9-speed HG cassette with one cog and spacer taken off, or put 9 speeds on it by using a 10-speed HG cassette with one cog and spacer taken off. Easiest cog to take off is the the biggest one at the back. Use a cassette where all the cogs are separate and not rings riveted to a cage, and you can take the biggest one off like this. If you want to take the smallest one off, you'll need to make up a ring out of 2mm wire to sit in the recess in the next one up or it won't tighten up.

 

[27motorhead]

Yes you are right, just tooth clearance. Couldn't use the 34t "as-is" as it fouls by quite a lot (hard to make out on the photos).

A 32 might work though, will see if I've got one to try.



That is an option but I would be a little hesitant as it's made from aluminium and there wouldn't be much "meat on the bone" left! I've read that people have had these hangers re-made in mild steel as they have been known to fail, especially if the bike is dropped or caught on a kerb etc.



Much appreciated!!!! It should help if I end up dismantling the bike full at a later date for full paint etc. For now I am happy for it to be ratty but running sweet, and see if I enjoy the ride, before committing further.

Joe

Just slotting it (without breaking the edge) will not weaken it much at all and should buy you a few mm's. Being made from aluminium means it's pretty weak should it fall on the drive side, especially if loaded and doesn't like being bent back many times before it work hardens and fails so totally understand why others have switched to a bit of mild steel plate.

Long term I'd switch to a custom mild steel plate and combine it with a "frame saver" hanger, but in the mean time you'll be fine with what you have.

Getting this thing mechanically sound/running is the way forward. Forget how ratty it looks, it's all part of the charm and if your happy with how it performs then maybe you can treat it to some visual TLC.

 

[Guinessisgoodforyou]

Filing slots in the bracket is non reversible. Not the way to go imo.

 

[Joe_Rides]

Cheers all.

Regards the Freehub, there are 2 x things to address.

1. The shorter freehub currently on the bike won't take 8 speed (or might do with a bit of playing with spacers / cogs).

2. The longer freehub (which would take 8 speed) doe not work with the way the freehub is attached to the axle.

At this stage I am more bothered about item 2 - making sure I buy the right one. Once procured, I can sort out the cassette spacings etc.

 

[novocaine]

Are we just seeing a machining mark and mistaking it for a thread? The lines look parallel to each other in the picture.

nar, you can see the lead in to the thread.

Still a small body, possibly a 7 speed.

 

[Woz]

Just a note. The UG / HG compatible freehubs are not 11T compatible. Min size is 13T UG using the external last locking sprocket (if I remember right) or 12T HG using an internal locking nut.

 

[Guinessisgoodforyou]

nar, you can see the lead in to the thread.

Still a small body, possibly a 7 speed.

Where? I blew the pic up and couldn't see that. It is 7 speed.

 

[Woz]

That body looks like a STX-RC 7 speed HG compact drive compatible with an 11T.
http://www.bikepro.com/products/shimano_tables/98_tables/shim_freehub98_table.html

I have one in the attic I can check against.

I think your best option is probably a 9 speed cassette, bash out the rivets and just use the last 8 sprockets. Then use a 9 speed chain and shifter; I've done this several times.

 

[novocaine]

That body looks like a STX-RC 7 speed HG compact drive compatible with an 11T.
http://www.bikepro.com/products/shimano_tables/98_tables/shim_freehub98_table.html

I have one in the attic I can check against.

I think your best option is probably a 9 speed cassette, bash out the rivets and just use the last 8 sprockets. Then use a 9 speed chain and shifter; I've done this several times.

me too actual. I shall takes a looks.

 

[novocaine]

Where? I blew the pic up and couldn't see that. It is 7 speed.

Well I think I can see em, but it isn't worth getting my pants in a twist.

Cheers all.

Regards the Freehub, there are 2 x things to address.

1. The shorter freehub currently on the bike won't take 8 speed (or might do with a bit of playing with spacers / cogs).

2. The longer freehub (which would take 8 speed) doe not work with the way the freehub is attached to the axle.

At this stage I am more bothered about item 2 - making sure I buy the right one. Once procured, I can sort out the cassette spacings etc.

View attachment 755738

yer, that isn't standard, I think the outboard bearing has been removed.