8Freight Cargo bike - restoration / project

No clearance. The 6-speed cassette I removed had a 24t against my new 34t cassette. Dug one out with a 28t and I think there is plenty of clearance left for the chain.
If I'm not mistaken. Don't you just need "tooth" clearance only with the derailleur arm/hanger? As the chain wraps around the other side of the cassette (back side)? So you could use your 34T? With anything cargo related you'll be happy with the biggest range possible if it's hilly.

OR you could slot the hanger to gain you some more clearance as shown in pic below? Doesn't have to be fully slotted as pic, just an elongated hole/slot would do and could be done with a round file in minutes... 2 minutes perhaps? ;)🤣

Screen Shot 2023-07-05 at 09.58.51.png

Loving this thread, you can almost picture what was going in Mike's head as he was creating this bike as everything is bespoke/adapted which means you have a reverse puzzle on your hand and having seized things certainly doesn't help. This thread will save other people a whole lot of hair pulling (if they have any left!). Thanks for the detailed posts! :cool: 💪 🙏
 
If I'm not mistaken. Don't you just need "tooth" clearance only with the derailleur arm/hanger? As the chain wraps around the other side of the cassette (back side)? So you could use your 34T? With anything cargo related you'll be happy with the biggest range possible if it's hilly.

Yes you are right, just tooth clearance. Couldn't use the 34t "as-is" as it fouls by quite a lot (hard to make out on the photos).

A 32 might work though, will see if I've got one to try.

OR you could slot the hanger to gain you some more clearance as shown in pic below? Doesn't have to be fully slotted as pic, just an elongated hole/slot would do and could be done with a round file in minutes... 2 minutes perhaps? ;)🤣

That is an option but I would be a little hesitant as it's made from aluminium and there wouldn't be much "meat on the bone" left! I've read that people have had these hangers re-made in mild steel as they have been known to fail, especially if the bike is dropped or caught on a kerb etc.

Loving this thread, you can almost picture what was going in Mike's head as he was creating this bike as everything is bespoke/adapted which means you have a reverse puzzle on your hand and having seized things certainly doesn't help. This thread will save other people a whole lot of hair pulling (if they have any left!). Thanks for the detailed posts! :cool: 💪 🙏

Much appreciated!!!! It should help if I end up dismantling the bike full at a later date for full paint etc. For now I am happy for it to be ratty but running sweet, and see if I enjoy the ride, before committing further.

Joe
 
road 8 and MTB 8 are the same.
looks like a 7 speed shimano parrallax freebody that's been fitted in a none standard way, I'll check the 8 speed one I've got in the workshop if I get chance. they aren't any longer overall but the 7 speed body has a wider raised bit at the back that stops the 8 speed cassette fitting.

Thanks for this.

Photo attached from side-on.

The left is the one I need, the right is another one I tried, but the washer won't fit into the end.

20230704_214535.jpg

Thanks
 
Left side is Uniglide/Hyperglide compatible + the old little bit of threading at the end, Right is newer style Hyperglide. 7-speed cassette will fit on the newer one (+ a shim between the spokes and backside of cassette), but the 8-speed cassette will NOT fit on the older one because the cassette is wider than the old freehub body. Sprocket spacing between each other and within a 7-speed and 8-speed cassette are the same.

The only way to use the Uniglide/Hyperglide freehub and get 8-speeds is to sort of build your own cassette using a 10-speed cassette with the much narrower spacing between sprockets and the slightly narrower sprockets. Though, this may be cost prohibitive to get the gearing you want as it may take two 10-speed cassettes, or buying individually. Or alternatively (and maaaaaaybe) you can use the 8-spd cassette with 10 or 11 spd spacers so as long as your overall width is the same for that old freehub.
 
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Mhm, that little bit of threading of the left freehub plus the width in his picture had me thinking it was a Uniglide/Hyperglide freehub. Yours clearly show more threading.
 
didn't spot the outer thread on the freebody, it isn't uniglide (GIGFY is correct), it also has the wide tooth gap which UG didn't have. there was a transition unit sold that had that but it had the threads on the teeth like above.

I think I have a grimica hub that has a similar external thread but it's not an internal pawl so unlikely to be that. curious now I want to dig a bit deeper.
 
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