8 Speed cassete on a 7 speed freehub
- Thread starter voteforpedro
- Start date
voteforpedro
Specialized Fan
That’s a nice setup you’ve got there.
The whole point is to use what I’ve got so I think it’s easier to get a freehub body that shifters and derailleur.
fastpedaller
Dirt Disciple
If you can find a freehub that fits? The bolt holding the freehub to the hub body can be swapped over, so no problem there; Whether the 'shape' of the hub to freehub interface will be the same is unknown/unlikely unless you are comparing manufacturer's data or are very lucky. There is also the issue of whether the seal on the cone will work with the new freehub.
Just keep to shimano, you will be fine. As for the seal, use the one that came with the freehub. Dont worry too much about mixing cones, whilst the bearing position might be slightly different ( pushed further or less up the race wall) in reality I've never found it to make a difference in general use. Just play about with the spacers (its handy to keep a few from knackered hubs) to position the seal.
Just have a go. If its all wrong you can always put it back!
Just have a go. If its all wrong you can always put it back!
8/9/10 speed cassette hub on 7 speed xt m732 rear hub.
Heres a few pics. In no particular order!
1st is a problem you might hit, the raised section is often thinner on an 8 speed freehub, the cassette bolts then foul the hub.
2nd the spacer that solves the above.
3rd compaired hubs
4th finished hubs.
5th using a mix of the old cones and seals, respaced and swapped spacers....just keep putting the cassette on and trying it in the frame if your not sure of your measurements. The closer to the frame the less dish, the less spoke tension % difference, the stronger the wheel.
Hope they help.
Heres a few pics. In no particular order!
1st is a problem you might hit, the raised section is often thinner on an 8 speed freehub, the cassette bolts then foul the hub.
2nd the spacer that solves the above.
3rd compaired hubs
4th finished hubs.
5th using a mix of the old cones and seals, respaced and swapped spacers....just keep putting the cassette on and trying it in the frame if your not sure of your measurements. The closer to the frame the less dish, the less spoke tension % difference, the stronger the wheel.
Hope they help.
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fastpedaller
Dirt Disciple
The main concern for me will be whether the 'star' on the freehub engages on the mating part of the hub - not visible until the freehub is removed, and there are at least 2 different Shimano designs.
Its really not a concern if you stick to older shimano stuff and I doubt he's doing to cannibalise an older durace hub for the purpose.
But yes, be aware there are different hubs out there. Also obviously freehubs from other manufacturers may not fit.
But yes, be aware there are different hubs out there. Also obviously freehubs from other manufacturers may not fit.
