It still needs slightly fettled in the drivetrain and brakes,maybe the headset too but i thought id show it just the same.
Frame- 2011 Orange Pure 7 19"
Fork- 2007 Fox vanilla RLC 130mm
Headset- Crank bros Opium SL
Stem- FSA XC150 100mm 6d
Bars- Titec hellbent[temporary]
Seatpost -27.2 Raceface ride
Saddle- Fizik Nisene[temporary]
Shifters-Shimano deore 9spd
Rear mech -Shimano SLX
Front mech- Shimano Avliio
Cranks/rings- Shimano Alivio
Hubs- Hope XC front,Hope Pro2 rear CB
Stainless spokes front plain 149,rear 14g DB
Rims- drc MT19 hard
Brakes-Hope mono mini
Tyres- Continental Traction Pro Dual.[temporary]
It was one of those purchases where you hit the buy button before reading the full details.This is beginning to sound like one of those cheap horror paperbacks you get just about everywhere.Not a problem but once again i have a bike too small for me.Always wanted another Orange to replace my long lost clockwork.Any model would have done from their steel range i wasn't fussy.It became a no luck hunt.Every time i found the right frame [21"] i was out of funds and when i had the funds there werent any in my size :roll:
But then one day[OO there goes that novel again]I happened upon this frame with the cranks ,chain and front and rear mechs at a dont read buy price.
Bought and paid for as the buyer wanted instant payment i went back to the description to see what i had bought myself
bit like a mystery gift this one.
Luck stepped forth and delivered me a cracking deal,of Oranges latest model ,Hardly a year old and in smashing condition.Then promptly gobbed in my face.
19"
Typical
It is too small,thought i could ride it with a 400mm post and higher risers but the 22 1/2" top tube is just too hunched.
Funnily enough,when i had the 21" clockwork it was a bit of an all-rounder for me,constantly changing its guise from shopping bike with racks and panniers to a race esc build or should i say cobble together of parts and used for jumping off things.I always wondered if i should have got a 19" set up for offroad only :? Probably would have worked back then but now the frame shape i think wouldnt suit me.
I will try it though
Overall i think i must admit i was lucky in finding the parts at such good prices.
It was all pretty straight forward.Find the parts and bolt them on and Bob's the proverbial but i good deals can sometimes bring complications or dilemmas and i got both
I had some great wheels.Hope bulbs on 5 bolt spider and to use them would save a fair few quid but only having 185/165mm rotors that fit on the 5 bolt spiders meant i had the complication of my IS mount frame and fork coupled with the IS mount mini mono's would only work with a 180/160mm rotor.I tried to fit the +5mm rotors and brakes together but the edge of the rotor scraped against the top of the caliper.
Further complications were id got a nice pair of initially unknown fox forks.Usual bitt of googling put them as 2007 vanilla rlc with 130mm travel.The optimum fork for the pure 7 is 130 according to Orange with the maximum being 140 and the minimum 100mm so that has to be fate This lucky deal wasnt prefect however[a theme is developing :shock:]the steerer was a pretty short 175mm which given the 7's headtube is 120mm i didnt have much room to get the headset and stem stacks sizes into.55m for stem and H/S is pushing the boundaries but not impossible.After yet more googling and checking search on here and other forums it appeared that the crank bros H/S was about the best deal for a low stack.Comes in at 21.6mm leaving me a whopping34.4mm to get a stem onto.More googling,back to the archinves and search page we go and find thankfully that a 35mm stack stem is quite common and given the top cap needs some room to compress i could even -shock horror- get a spacer under it :shock: ill probably change that to make for one on top,just to keep the maximum steerer in the stem and leave compression room :? ]
Ive also fitted, just to help reinforce, an extra long expander nut thats is nearly 50mm and fits well down inside the steerer past the top cup of the headset
Dilemmas on complications #2.
I have the bulbs and can get the 180/160 in 5 bolt pattern but i might have to pay through the nose as brand new or i can use the rims off the bulb wheels and buy a set of modern Hope 6 bolt hubs
In the end a nice XC and pro 2 with ceramic bearings came my way for the right price.So i stripped the bulbs for their rims and reused the spokes for the Pro 2 rear to save a few quid.In the end i reckoned its better to have one of each pattern.I prefer to hang on to wheels for different projects.
I had a little cycle on it to check out the gears and brakes as its more or less just put together to see how it sits.I still have to strip it again and put anti seize on every thread
The rear brake might need bleeding though i had redressed the pads and the different set up might just be a bedding in,lets hope so any way
.Gears are so so but ill have them sorted soon enough as they more or less sit perfect from the off and only a little fettling is needed.
So
What does people think? discussions if needed and does anyone else have one of these Pure 7's?
Frame- 2011 Orange Pure 7 19"
Fork- 2007 Fox vanilla RLC 130mm
Headset- Crank bros Opium SL
Stem- FSA XC150 100mm 6d
Bars- Titec hellbent[temporary]
Seatpost -27.2 Raceface ride
Saddle- Fizik Nisene[temporary]
Shifters-Shimano deore 9spd
Rear mech -Shimano SLX
Front mech- Shimano Avliio
Cranks/rings- Shimano Alivio
Hubs- Hope XC front,Hope Pro2 rear CB
Stainless spokes front plain 149,rear 14g DB
Rims- drc MT19 hard
Brakes-Hope mono mini
Tyres- Continental Traction Pro Dual.[temporary]
It was one of those purchases where you hit the buy button before reading the full details.This is beginning to sound like one of those cheap horror paperbacks you get just about everywhere.Not a problem but once again i have a bike too small for me.Always wanted another Orange to replace my long lost clockwork.Any model would have done from their steel range i wasn't fussy.It became a no luck hunt.Every time i found the right frame [21"] i was out of funds and when i had the funds there werent any in my size :roll:
But then one day[OO there goes that novel again]I happened upon this frame with the cranks ,chain and front and rear mechs at a dont read buy price.
Bought and paid for as the buyer wanted instant payment i went back to the description to see what i had bought myself
bit like a mystery gift this one.Luck stepped forth and delivered me a cracking deal,of Oranges latest model ,Hardly a year old and in smashing condition.Then promptly gobbed in my face.
19"
Typical
It is too small,thought i could ride it with a 400mm post and higher risers but the 22 1/2" top tube is just too hunched.
Funnily enough,when i had the 21" clockwork it was a bit of an all-rounder for me,constantly changing its guise from shopping bike with racks and panniers to a race esc build or should i say cobble together of parts and used for jumping off things.I always wondered if i should have got a 19" set up for offroad only :? Probably would have worked back then but now the frame shape i think wouldnt suit me.
I will try it though
Overall i think i must admit i was lucky in finding the parts at such good prices.
It was all pretty straight forward.Find the parts and bolt them on and Bob's the proverbial but i good deals can sometimes bring complications or dilemmas and i got both
I had some great wheels.Hope bulbs on 5 bolt spider and to use them would save a fair few quid but only having 185/165mm rotors that fit on the 5 bolt spiders meant i had the complication of my IS mount frame and fork coupled with the IS mount mini mono's would only work with a 180/160mm rotor.I tried to fit the +5mm rotors and brakes together but the edge of the rotor scraped against the top of the caliper.
Further complications were id got a nice pair of initially unknown fox forks.Usual bitt of googling put them as 2007 vanilla rlc with 130mm travel.The optimum fork for the pure 7 is 130 according to Orange with the maximum being 140 and the minimum 100mm so that has to be fate
This lucky deal wasnt prefect however[a theme is developing :shock:]the steerer was a pretty short 175mm which given the 7's headtube is 120mm i didnt have much room to get the headset and stem stacks sizes into.55m for stem and H/S is pushing the boundaries but not impossible.After yet more googling and checking search on here and other forums it appeared that the crank bros H/S was about the best deal for a low stack.Comes in at 21.6mm leaving me a whopping34.4mm to get a stem onto.More googling,back to the archinves and search page we go and find thankfully that a 35mm stack stem is quite common and given the top cap needs some room to compress i could even -shock horror- get a spacer under it :shock: ill probably change that to make for one on top,just to keep the maximum steerer in the stem and leave compression room :? ]Ive also fitted, just to help reinforce, an extra long expander nut thats is nearly 50mm and fits well down inside the steerer past the top cup of the headset
Dilemmas on complications #2.
I have the bulbs and can get the 180/160 in 5 bolt pattern but i might have to pay through the nose as brand new or i can use the rims off the bulb wheels and buy a set of modern Hope 6 bolt hubs
In the end a nice XC and pro 2 with ceramic bearings came my way for the right price.So i stripped the bulbs for their rims and reused the spokes for the Pro 2 rear to save a few quid.In the end i reckoned its better to have one of each pattern.I prefer to hang on to wheels for different projects.
I had a little cycle on it to check out the gears and brakes as its more or less just put together to see how it sits.I still have to strip it again and put anti seize on every thread
The rear brake might need bleeding though i had redressed the pads and the different set up might just be a bedding in,lets hope so any way
.Gears are so so but ill have them sorted soon enough as they more or less sit perfect from the off and only a little fettling is needed.
So
What does people think? discussions if needed and does anyone else have one of these Pure 7's?
