2006 Independent Fabrication Deluxe

Anthony":1n8xxco6 said:
You didn't say how far down the tube the cut was, nor how deep it was, but the butting goes a fair way down, usually 125mm or 150mm, and then there is a tapered section before you get to the 0.6mm thick part. I'm no expert, but if the cut wasn't too deep and if it was in the 1.2mm thick section, then hopefully you should be ok?

And as for the dent, well again you've seen it and we haven't, but I can't see it from the outside, so hopefully the previous comments apply and it shouldn't ever cause a problem. How did he manage that though? I thought I was ham-fisted, but I don't think I could manage that if I tried!

I guess any potential for a problem would be minimised by using a nice long post inserted well down the tube?

It would be a shame to have to have the seat tube replaced, but hopefully the need will never arise.


The cuts run the entire length of the butt and onto the thinner tubing below. Difficult to measure how much material has been removed along the length of said cuts. At some points it looks deep(ish) at others it looks to be little more than a scratch. Think the previous owner stuck something down the tube to try and pull the stuck post out from below, hence the dents. They aren't of concern having verified they aren't cracks.

Running a decent direct fit (ie not shimmed) post and seat collar is the way forward.


As for thompson (sic) being last year I disagree. It's great stuff and reasonable value - they've taken the mantle of what syncros used to stand for in my book.
 
John":1cuqp6cl said:
As for thompson (sic) being last year I disagree. It's great stuff and reasonable value - they've taken the mantle of what syncros used to stand for in my book.

seconded.

And, there's not a lot of choice at the 29.4 end of the market to be honest.

I'm not sure they make bent ones in 29.4. Your choice may be made for you on that one. I wanted a bent one on mine IIRC.

Presuming INdies are still that size of course.

:?
 
Wu-Tangled":2aoxtz6j said:
John":2aoxtz6j said:
As for thompson (sic) being last year I disagree. It's great stuff and reasonable value - they've taken the mantle of what syncros used to stand for in my book.

seconded.

And, there's not a lot of choice at the 29.4 end of the market to be honest.

I'm not sure they make bent ones in 29.4. Your choice may be made for you on that one. I wanted a bent one on mine IIRC.

Presuming INdies are still that size of course.

:?

It is a 29.4, that kalloy beaut came with my Yo when I bought it.

You're right, 29.4 is straight only. Assumed layback was available in all sizes since I had a larger diameter post with layback. How wrong I was!

Also a little dissapointed my IF doesn't have a front periscope like yours...
 
John":1hao0ogr said:
Anthony":1hao0ogr said:
You didn't say how far down the tube the cut was, nor how deep it was, but the butting goes a fair way down, usually 125mm or 150mm, and then there is a tapered section before you get to the 0.6mm thick part. I'm no expert, but if the cut wasn't too deep and if it was in the 1.2mm thick section, then hopefully you should be ok?

And as for the dent, well again you've seen it and we haven't, but I can't see it from the outside, so hopefully the previous comments apply and it shouldn't ever cause a problem. How did he manage that though? I thought I was ham-fisted, but I don't think I could manage that if I tried!

I guess any potential for a problem would be minimised by using a nice long post inserted well down the tube?

It would be a shame to have to have the seat tube replaced, but hopefully the need will never arise.


The cuts run the entire length of the butt and onto the thinner tubing below. Difficult to measure how much material has been removed along the length of said cuts. At some points it looks deep(ish) at others it looks to be little more than a scratch. Think the previous owner stuck something down the tube to try and pull the stuck post out from below, hence the dents. They aren't of concern having verified they aren't cracks.

Running a decent direct fit (ie not shimmed) post and seat collar is the way forward.


As for thompson (sic) being last year I disagree. It's great stuff and reasonable value - they've taken the mantle of what syncros used to stand for in my book.

Not sure they'll ever take over from what Syncros used to be...now they really did make uber cool parts BITD :D

Thomsons are, from what I hear reliable posts though and would look good in an IF
 
Wu-Tangled":29f890fe said:
Neil G":29f890fe said:
Thomsons are, from what I hear reliable posts though and would look good in an IF

Yes. And if you can get a Masterpiece, can be proper light too.
Best stick with the heavier one after the Xmas I've had....
 
John":1ad9tqlm said:
Wu-Tangled":1ad9tqlm said:
Neil G":1ad9tqlm said:
Thomsons are, from what I hear reliable posts though and would look good in an IF

Yes. And if you can get a Masterpiece, can be proper light too.
Best stick with the heavier one after the Xmas I've had....



:LOL: me too. 'cept I'd be more worried about hte rails on the Carbonio SLR... :shock:
 
I'm puzzled that it takes a 29.4 post. Normally, butting is external so a 31.8 x 9-6-12 tube would have an internal diameter of 31.8 - 2 x 0.6 = 30.6 and it might take a post of 30.4 ED. The 29.4 post seems to imply that the butting must be internal. In which case the post is in contact with the tube only for the butted part of the tube. In which case, there may be no advantage from using a long post as I advocated earlier?
 
Lovely looking frame and kudos for the eclectic build - the tyres and stem/seatpost combo are nice subtle touches. Isn't it a bit small though with only that stump of post standing proud?

Got to take exception to this though
John":3pxc0zk2 said:
Running a decent direct fit (ie not shimmed) post and seat collar is the way forward.
- how on earth are you going to successfully ovalise the tube if you don't use a too small shim and some Red Bull can? Of course, the real experts use a too large shim (bashed home with a lump hammer so that the top is nice and splayed and all but impossible to remove without scoring the seat tube) and then 'screwing' in the post. If you get this right the shim overlap does a great job of ovalising the tube, you score the post beautifully so that it's easier to cut it lengthwise if you need to do so when you come to get it out plus, if you are really skilled, you can bulge the seattube and bend or (oh heaven) even snap the seatpost binder bolt. Or so I'm told.
 
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