1x10
- Thread starter tintin40
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Duxuk":3ncjbeya said:
Yeah, I would say, from distant memories, the only time I used a big ring and small sprocket was on a road section eg when returning home from a long ride. I get the impression that the modern mountain biker doesn't do that sort of thing now and drives to the trails.
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This is a very pertinent topic for me as I've not gone 1x yet but have a build planned though hadn't considered gear ratios as have always had 3x or 2x so there is always the right gear somewhere.
I had planned on using a 32t chainring but not thought about the cassette numbers.
Riding will be mostly trails plus riding to and from them. What 10sp ratios would be appropriate? Rides will not be strava busting, just recreational/fitness oriented. I'm not averse to a different chainring up front.
I've got a few parts waiting, including an m980 mech (standard) or up cage (what are the benefits of these?), and a couple of expandedr sprockets.
This is a very pertinent topic for me as I've not gone 1x yet but have a build planned though hadn't considered gear ratios as have always had 3x or 2x so there is always the right gear somewhere.
I had planned on using a 32t chainring but not thought about the cassette numbers.
Riding will be mostly trails plus riding to and from them. What 10sp ratios would be appropriate? Rides will not be strava busting, just recreational/fitness oriented. I'm not averse to a different chainring up front.
I've got a few parts waiting, including an m980 mech (standard) or up cage (what are the benefits of these?), and a couple of expandedr sprockets.
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Just remember to use the correct type of chainring at the front. They are designed to keep the chain in place as you skip up and down the cassette.
And dont forget mech extenders allowing 'normal' mechs to go wider ratio and longer cages are about too.
And dont forget mech extenders allowing 'normal' mechs to go wider ratio and longer cages are about too.
kipperthedog
Senior Retro Guru
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Mech cages are definitely getting longer.....a Deore m6000 medium cage is longer than a Deore m510! That said, iirc the medium m6000 will go to 42 but the long m6000 only goes to 36. I presume the b-link is different like it is on a Zee mech. Longer b-screws are available too.
Mech cages are definitely getting longer.....a Deore m6000 medium cage is longer than a Deore m510! That said, iirc the medium m6000 will go to 42 but the long m6000 only goes to 36. I presume the b-link is different like it is on a Zee mech. Longer b-screws are available too.
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Firstly, what LGF said is true; a narrow wide chainring really helps the chain not come off. And I haven't seen clutch mechs mentioned yet - these two things are part of what makes this all work IMO. the ring is far less likely to let the chain fall off, and the clutch mech stops the chain bouncing in the first place.
WRT to ratios, I'd decide what was most important to you and work from there. Low gears, High gears, or the range inbetween. I decided I rarely use my lowest or highest gears, but would rather lose speed and retain my 'granny' gear. So my aim was to give me my granny gear, and lose my top 2-3 gears. 36t chainring and 11-46 cassette gave me exactly this (compared to something like 22-33-44 with 11-2
. If you wanted a super low gear, use a smaller chainring, if you never use your low gears, but often spin out a 44-11... your legs are better than mine, and you need a bigger chainring.
If you want to do it as cheap as possible, then 11-30 with a standard mech is doable, but your range is reduced. On a standard hyperglide hub, you can go up to 50-11 cassette, but as the cassette gets bigger, your mech & shifter choices diminish.
My setup is a single old XT 10 speed shifter, an 11 speed XT clutch mech (gs) which was new for about £40 (and needed for the 46t) a 11-46 sunrace cassette plus a cheapy narrow-wide chainring. The shifting is a little less slick than some setups, but it works well. (I also have a 12 speed Sram GX setup to compare).
ishaw":nz0e5kjt said:
Firstly, what LGF said is true; a narrow wide chainring really helps the chain not come off. And I haven't seen clutch mechs mentioned yet - these two things are part of what makes this all work IMO. the ring is far less likely to let the chain fall off, and the clutch mech stops the chain bouncing in the first place.
WRT to ratios, I'd decide what was most important to you and work from there. Low gears, High gears, or the range inbetween. I decided I rarely use my lowest or highest gears, but would rather lose speed and retain my 'granny' gear. So my aim was to give me my granny gear, and lose my top 2-3 gears. 36t chainring and 11-46 cassette gave me exactly this (compared to something like 22-33-44 with 11-2
. If you wanted a super low gear, use a smaller chainring, if you never use your low gears, but often spin out a 44-11... your legs are better than mine, and you need a bigger chainring. If you want to do it as cheap as possible, then 11-30 with a standard mech is doable, but your range is reduced. On a standard hyperglide hub, you can go up to 50-11 cassette, but as the cassette gets bigger, your mech & shifter choices diminish.
My setup is a single old XT 10 speed shifter, an 11 speed XT clutch mech (gs) which was new for about £40 (and needed for the 46t) a 11-46 sunrace cassette plus a cheapy narrow-wide chainring. The shifting is a little less slick than some setups, but it works well. (I also have a 12 speed Sram GX setup to compare).
