1x vs 3x: The Maths

The difference is modern riders on a retro site and retro riders on a retro site.
Depends what you want out of them,

Just as long as it's 3x at the front and 6, 7 or 8 at the back...*
9 speed if you want a nicer new cassette and don't mind sneaking into the modern stuff a bit.
of course.

(This is retro up to 1997 chat after all)

*or sturmey archer 3x or 5x
 
The difference is modern riders on a retro site and retro riders on a retro site.
Depends what you want out of them,

Just as long as it's 3x at the front and 6, 7 or 8 at the back...*
9 speed if you want a nicer new cassette and don't mind sneaking into the modern stuff a bit.
of course.

(This is retro up to 1997 chat after all)

*or sturmey archer 3x or 5x
One day 13 speed, electric shifting will be retro

My my
 
Hopefully never
Well never in a section before 1998, we're stuck in the past here so don't drag modernity in to it...
1x8 on the other hand works fine, with these fancy megarange dinner plate cassettes you can buy ;-)

IMG-20130504-00014.jpg
 
Thanks for posting that. Interesting article, but I do have issues with its real life implications. I’d like to see the same tests on a part worn, badly lubed, mud crusted mtb groupset.

I’m in complete agreement that 2x is better for road use. Gravel, I think depends on your riding. I use mine as a lightweight mtb and like the simplicity of 1x, but I can see if you are doing longer proper gravel rides that 2x may well be better for you.

On mtb, I’m firmly 1x. No more dropped chains, no chain suck and no more trying to change gears at both ends to get in the right gear when coming round the corner to find a steep climb. Gears go up, gears go down. Simple.
Add in optimised suspension pivot position and it’s a no brainier for modern bikes. My first suspension bike was a 97 STS, a 4 bar Horst link design, so is my current Transition Sentinel. Front pivot is in a very similar position in both. On the GT this means it’s in the ideal position when in the middle ring. In the smaller ring the suspension bobs a lot more when climbing and in the big ring it is a bit stiffer when descending. This is the opposite to what you want. On the Transition it’s always in the optimum place for suspension performance, going up or down.
I should imagine that a 'worn, badly lubed, mud crusted' groupset would just exacerbate the existing differences; however, I agree, it would be interesting to know how much difference real life crap makes.
 
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