1996 Judy XC rebuild - FINISHED (page 7) 30/05/12

Re:

A long bolt will probably not help and always strip before you buy or think of anything with forks.

Once it has moved out of it socket at the bottom the bolt has done its job. The longer bolt is just to make sure and is easier to use.
If it then does not pull or twist out you need brute force but it will most likely be a dead leg.


The rod you are moving is just sliding up and down 60mm or so and is what pushes against the springs (or in reality the spring sits on the top of the rod which is bolted to the lower leg forming a rigid body. As tht part slides up over the stanchion it compresses the spring. It is not attached as such to the stanchion you are trying to get out.

Clamp the lower leg and clamp the stanchion and twist turn tear the things apart , muhahaha. You have nothing to lose in my opinion.
 
OK, so have given up on getting the other leg out of my forks. I think if I did manage to force them apart, the damage to the insides would probably make the forks dangerous/not work properly. I decided to buy a set of forks off someone on eBay...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171512510056? ... EBIDX%3AIT

I'm thinking that with this set + my set + the new Kronos coil springs which arrived yesterday, I should be able to assemble a working set of forks. The seller of those forks has said "Legs still move smoothly, forks are otherwise in good condition but need elastomer rebuild kit. I don't have a lot of experience with Judy forks so not quite sure how to confirm what condition the oil dampener is in."
 
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Re:

Regarding damper.
When its out there should be notable resistance When pushing and pulling the rod, also a squidgy nois,that's the oil passing the piston.
Be very careful to try this before removing the cartridge from inside they stantion, otherwise you will pull they top of the outer piston off, and any oil inside will go everywhere!

:)
 
takkischitt":q1s84kyz said:
Well there's no resistance with the one from my forks. Borked, or just no oil?

Possibly just lost its oil, most have at one time or another.
best you can do is strip apart, check seals etc, fill with fork oil (I forget the grade) and try them.
 
Thanks for your good guidance.

To clarify: "The non- drive side (left) lower leg has the oil-filled damper"

My non-drive outer stanchion has small 'RockShox' decal near to dropout saying ADJUST. Please tell: in which stanchion does the socket head capscrew with the hole in it screw into go into...thought it was this one?
 
Re:

The screw with the hole goes on the side with the adjustable damper.

It doesn't matter which side the damper is actually in (they changed it through the years).

but switch it all around if you want it to be correct for the stickers.
 
Many thanks

Sorry to sound thick (enjoying it but all new at it) " the adjustable damper" is the black tube is it not, it has to be? If yes all's falling in place.

Dummy leg has patch of smooth corrosion. I summise this does not matter?

Judy forks have 230mm steering tube: Kula 20" frame 150mm headtube. Any suggests on headset? Thanks, all info is gold dust
 
Re:

yes the black tube stick in the bottom of the stanchion.

If you look up the bottom of dampers er 'damping rod/bolt to lower legs bit', in there should be the allen bolt bit you use to adjust the damper. Some early or low ends had no adjustment.

don't worry about the dummy leg, it'll make it a bit less smooth but doubt you'll notice as it's quite slack against any seals/holes anyway.
 
Re:

230 (steerer) - 150 (headtube) - 45 (stem or stem and a spacer)
= 35mm, you can get pretty much any headset with that quite high stack height.
I'd aim for 28 to 32mm stack headset headsets.

so FSA MX Pro, CaneCreek whatever if the current numbering 40 or S8's, Ritchey Logic WCS are all decent not to expensive (15 to 25 quid last time I looked) headseats, but there are many others to choose from.
 
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