Time flies. Been mega busy with work. Too busy for bikes pretty much. Also a new, additional love affair with vintage stereo equipment and vinyl records. Was back in the US for a month to get some work done on the farm and pick up parts I had bought pretty much a year ago.
- Ultimate Machine crank arm bolts
- titanium stuff
- vintage cranks

In the mean time I picked up NOS Campy Atek rims and a few anodized bits and bobs from a local seller. The rims are black/dark grey and I may want to do something about that, but no time to think about it!

Still trying to sort out the titanium steerer tube. Picked up a "hobbyist" lathe I need to get going then I can do a bit of milling; needs a new motor, but in very good shape. I need a proper press too. Still trying to sort out light weight mid to early 90's tires in NOS/VGC.
 
DE5F83DE-DC54-4615-870B-15A40FB2E46F.jpeg FDD224D6-1AB0-436A-A31E-FAD7DAD15BAE.jpeg Been toying with the idea of building the wheel set while the family is gone for a few days. 32 hole build front and rear.

What I have to work with for parts consists of:
Campagnolo Atek, Hardox, NOS
Nosler Research hubs (think Stiffy’s, Ti-90’s and Nuke Proof)
Marwi titanium spokes - NOS

The problem is, I am feeling a bit lazy about a spoke conundrum. On my Schwinn Homegrown Factory Team XTR bike, the wheels are laced 0x front and 2x/1x rear and they have stayed true for years. For this Serotta build, I have the correct spoke length for a front radial/0x build, spokes are naked titanium color.

The rear, I have the lengths to do a 3x or a 3x/2x and the spokes are factory anodized Ti-dye. Maybe no conundrum…I guess I need to break out the titanium etch kit and give the non-anodized ones the “treatment”. But to have everything match I will need to strip the original anodizing off. Or maybe just bastardize them and use colored and naked.

What do you think?
 
Back
Top