1994 Marin Titanium FRS
- Thread starter Benandemu
- Start date
Yeah, I was never very happy with the use of Purple or the use of any bar ends. I have exactly the same parts as that photo, but in Blue. The main splash of colour are the cantis, and they're Critical Racing, just like the original.
I'll do a detailed component list at some point soon, but I think only the bars, seat post and colours will be different. I've got the saddle, but I don't get on with it, so that'll probably stay off too.
I'd love Black Topline cranks, but they're proving very hard to find. Plus, the bar/stem combo was a Marin option from their accessory catalogue at the time, although I think this particular one might be from '93.
I'll do a detailed component list at some point soon, but I think only the bars, seat post and colours will be different. I've got the saddle, but I don't get on with it, so that'll probably stay off too.
I'd love Black Topline cranks, but they're proving very hard to find. Plus, the bar/stem combo was a Marin option from their accessory catalogue at the time, although I think this particular one might be from '93.
Had a few hours booked in the diary for rebuilding the Manitou 3 front forks last night, and I thought I'd try and detail what's involved when doing this job. I ordered a heap of elastomers and lube from Suspension Fork Parts after a conversation with the guy who runs it - a really helpful bloke he is too!
Anyway, the elastomers turned up, and I downloaded the manual from their website. I thought it would be easier to have a hard copy in paper rather than messing about with IPads or laptops when I'm covered in grease. Plus, there's something more 'retro' about paper manuals.
Firstly, all you'll need is a small screwdriver, a 4mm, 5mm and 6mm Allen key, a rubber mallet (for persuasion), some old rags, paraffin/thinners/engine degreaser, and some elbow grease.
This is what we're starting with (I'm also changing the crown to give me a more suitable steerer length for my frame).
Remove the little screws from the base of each leg, and keep them safe.
Then pull up the crown from the legs to give better access to the seals. The seals are held in place with a little clip which needs prying out of its groove. Use the screwdriver to do this, and then pry up the seal carefully with the screwdriver. Pull them up to the top of the stanchion so they're out of the way.
Turn the fork upside down, and put your foot on the crown. Pull the legs sharply upwards to remove them. It's normal to feel resistance, so it will need a strong jolt. This is what comes out. Note that you will be able to see the stanchion bushes still on the stanchions. These live underneath the dust seals.
Now, at this point, I loosened off the bolts on the stanchions as I wanted better access to the over tightened Blue adjuster knob on top. These need unscrewing next, and sometimes this will give your hands better grip.
This is what unscrews out.
The lower legs will still be attached at this point. There is a metal clip that slides off a groove in each leg. Slide the rotten elastomer off too. You can also inspect the lower (white) split bush to make sure it's clean and in good health.
Turn the forks upside down, and push out the lower legs.
Now, turn your attention to the compression stack.
Disassemble it totally, and clean all the metal parts which will be going back in. There will be residue of the stickiest substance known to man all over the skewer! This is where thinners, or engine degreaser should be used with liberal amounts of elbow grease to remove all the gunk so they look as clean as new again. Take care to inspect the 2 rubber O-rings in each compression skewer.
Here's where these come in.
Rebuild the skewer using cleaned parts and new elastomers. You must carefully grease every surface of the elastomers or they'll die young!
I added an extra elastomer in this photo, as I was toying with longer travel possibilities, but for standard rebuilds, only 6 elastomers should be used. The stack should be 6 1/2 inches of elastomers.
At this point, slide the old dust seals off the stanchions and inspect for signs of wear. As you can see in the background, mine were well had. Slide the new seals onto the stanchion.
Pop the lower legs back into the forks, and then slide a well greased rebound elastomer onto the bottom before sliding the metal clip back into its groove. Make sure you're liberal with grease everywhere, as it's what keeps them smooth and protected, not to mention working. Should look like this...
Slide this whole assembly back into the main lower legs. You'll need to force them in with a jolt again. Don't be afraid to use a persuasive rubber mallet to get them seated, by placing the forks upright on the floor, and tapping the steerer tube down. Make sure the stanchion bushes aren't in the way at this point - pull them up to the top of the stanchion out of the way with the dust seals.
The next bit can be tricky, and here's how I had to do it. Put each compression skewer inside there stanchion. Pull up the fork crown to give maximum assistance. Hold the forks steady while forcing the compression skewer down enough to be able to start screwing it back in using the Blue adjuster knob. I actually had to use the end of a hammer pressing them in whilst my other hand was turning. It's difficult as you're compressing all the elastomers in the stack whilst trying to get the threads started.
Now the forks are back together. You can test them at this point.
All you need to do is tap each white bushing back into their seat to allow the seals to sit below the groove where the circlip will sit. The bushes need some forcing in as it's tight. Then manipulate the seals down so that your clip will find its seat. Then, under slight compression, put the little screws back in, under the each leg.
There's your 40mm of retro travel, right there!!
I'll attempt the rear end next time. There's no manual for those, so it'll be a series of calculated guesses. Can't be too different though, possibly just simpler.
Anyway, the elastomers turned up, and I downloaded the manual from their website. I thought it would be easier to have a hard copy in paper rather than messing about with IPads or laptops when I'm covered in grease. Plus, there's something more 'retro' about paper manuals.
Firstly, all you'll need is a small screwdriver, a 4mm, 5mm and 6mm Allen key, a rubber mallet (for persuasion), some old rags, paraffin/thinners/engine degreaser, and some elbow grease.
This is what we're starting with (I'm also changing the crown to give me a more suitable steerer length for my frame).
Remove the little screws from the base of each leg, and keep them safe.
Then pull up the crown from the legs to give better access to the seals. The seals are held in place with a little clip which needs prying out of its groove. Use the screwdriver to do this, and then pry up the seal carefully with the screwdriver. Pull them up to the top of the stanchion so they're out of the way.
Turn the fork upside down, and put your foot on the crown. Pull the legs sharply upwards to remove them. It's normal to feel resistance, so it will need a strong jolt. This is what comes out. Note that you will be able to see the stanchion bushes still on the stanchions. These live underneath the dust seals.
Now, at this point, I loosened off the bolts on the stanchions as I wanted better access to the over tightened Blue adjuster knob on top. These need unscrewing next, and sometimes this will give your hands better grip.
This is what unscrews out.
The lower legs will still be attached at this point. There is a metal clip that slides off a groove in each leg. Slide the rotten elastomer off too. You can also inspect the lower (white) split bush to make sure it's clean and in good health.
Turn the forks upside down, and push out the lower legs.
Now, turn your attention to the compression stack.
Disassemble it totally, and clean all the metal parts which will be going back in. There will be residue of the stickiest substance known to man all over the skewer! This is where thinners, or engine degreaser should be used with liberal amounts of elbow grease to remove all the gunk so they look as clean as new again. Take care to inspect the 2 rubber O-rings in each compression skewer.
Here's where these come in.
Rebuild the skewer using cleaned parts and new elastomers. You must carefully grease every surface of the elastomers or they'll die young!
I added an extra elastomer in this photo, as I was toying with longer travel possibilities, but for standard rebuilds, only 6 elastomers should be used. The stack should be 6 1/2 inches of elastomers.
At this point, slide the old dust seals off the stanchions and inspect for signs of wear. As you can see in the background, mine were well had. Slide the new seals onto the stanchion.
Pop the lower legs back into the forks, and then slide a well greased rebound elastomer onto the bottom before sliding the metal clip back into its groove. Make sure you're liberal with grease everywhere, as it's what keeps them smooth and protected, not to mention working. Should look like this...
Slide this whole assembly back into the main lower legs. You'll need to force them in with a jolt again. Don't be afraid to use a persuasive rubber mallet to get them seated, by placing the forks upright on the floor, and tapping the steerer tube down. Make sure the stanchion bushes aren't in the way at this point - pull them up to the top of the stanchion out of the way with the dust seals.
The next bit can be tricky, and here's how I had to do it. Put each compression skewer inside there stanchion. Pull up the fork crown to give maximum assistance. Hold the forks steady while forcing the compression skewer down enough to be able to start screwing it back in using the Blue adjuster knob. I actually had to use the end of a hammer pressing them in whilst my other hand was turning. It's difficult as you're compressing all the elastomers in the stack whilst trying to get the threads started.
Now the forks are back together. You can test them at this point.
All you need to do is tap each white bushing back into their seat to allow the seals to sit below the groove where the circlip will sit. The bushes need some forcing in as it's tight. Then manipulate the seals down so that your clip will find its seat. Then, under slight compression, put the little screws back in, under the each leg.
There's your 40mm of retro travel, right there!!
I'll attempt the rear end next time. There's no manual for those, so it'll be a series of calculated guesses. Can't be too different though, possibly just simpler.
Uncle Buck
Retrobike Rider
Amazing! You are a credit to the movement, to your family, to your country.
Where did you get that lovely IceToolz 6mm Allen wrench?
Where did you get that lovely IceToolz 6mm Allen wrench?
marc two tone
Retrobike Rider
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Re: 1994 Marin Titanium FRS
Yawwwwwwwwwn, i've got 3.
Very nice ben, these must have been rare then and, even rarer now considering most people walking into a bike shop came away with a muirwoods or pine mountain at a push.
A very worthwhile act of patience and TLC on the build itself.
I hope to have a little trundle on it someday.
cheers.
Yawwwwwwwwwn, i've got 3.
Very nice ben, these must have been rare then and, even rarer now considering most people walking into a bike shop came away with a muirwoods or pine mountain at a push.
A very worthwhile act of patience and TLC on the build itself.
I hope to have a little trundle on it someday.
cheers.
Only a brief update on some component/colour changes.
I wasn't really happy with the Silver Toplines or the Silver seatpost, so I was pretty lucky, and quick to pick up some Black versions of each.
I'm on the hunt for some Black 110pcd chainrings next.
Next job will be the rear end rebuild, which is why I've not put the decals on it yet. I'm desperate to dress the bloody thing, but know full well it'll end in tears unless I do them last.
Just on another note, but build related, I actually weighed the one piece Ti bar/stem combo, and came to 295g, and that's with a steel expander bolt. It's quite remarkable considering a Control Tech quill stem and some Titec Ti bars weigh 500g combined.
I wasn't really happy with the Silver Toplines or the Silver seatpost, so I was pretty lucky, and quick to pick up some Black versions of each.
I'm on the hunt for some Black 110pcd chainrings next.
Next job will be the rear end rebuild, which is why I've not put the decals on it yet. I'm desperate to dress the bloody thing, but know full well it'll end in tears unless I do them last.
Just on another note, but build related, I actually weighed the one piece Ti bar/stem combo, and came to 295g, and that's with a steel expander bolt. It's quite remarkable considering a Control Tech quill stem and some Titec Ti bars weigh 500g combined.
cherrybomb
Old School Grand Master
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You need a black stem & bar now though.
Does look sweet.
Does look sweet.
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