1993 Rocky Mountain Thunderbolt

[PeteC]

another step forward… mustered up the nerves to tap the crank threads to be able to fit the pedals with ti spindles. all went well *phew* and the pedals now thread in nice and smooth.

I love using my taps, but I agree, the first time is very stressful, especially on such a nice crank set!

 

[RockiMtn]

i decided to tap from back to front on the cranks. less nerve racking as there's no chance of messing up the threads at the beginning where the pedals are inserted trying to square the tap going in.

it also helped i did some practice tries on a number of less important cranks i had on hand.

 

[delronious]

Fantastic thread Frank! Making me want to keep the xc600 on my tbolt

 

[RockiMtn]

Fantastic thread Frank! Making me want to keep the xc600 on my tbolt

Thx! Yours is excellent as well, but being a much earlier TB with U-brake, I'd love to see a rigid fork on that though!

 

[cyclotoine]

Fantastic thread Frank! Making me want to keep the xc600 on my tbolt

Thx! Yours is excellent as well, but being a much earlier TB with U-brake, I'd love to see a rigid fork on that though!

Agreed, that horizontal chainstay looks awkward.

 

[RockiMtn]

Fantastic thread Frank! Making me want to keep the xc600 on my tbolt

Thx! Yours is excellent as well, but being a much earlier TB with U-brake, I'd love to see a rigid fork on that though!

Agreed, that horizontal chainstay looks awkward.

hmmm, wonder how mine will finally look.

 

[RockiMtn]

not sure which thread i should put this update in as i've not decided what to do with these just yet. but since all the "WD Pro"-style Ringle "re-working" was in this thread, decided to dump this here.


originally i was only looking to pick up one of these Ringle "road" skewers. my intentions was to strip it down and convert it into a seat binder to somewhat match a set of Critical Racing skewers currently on my Cirrus, which now may be shifted to the Altitude. however, luck would have it, there was two independent sales for what looked to be matching front and rear that i could make into a set. i scored both but when they arrived, the shorter that was advertised as a front was WAY too long and the threads stopped beyond the fork drop-outs. :facepalm:

as you can see the shorter one compared to a complete 3-holed Ringle set, the threads end at the same spot as the rear. so i'm guessing it's a rear that's been cut down. however it's a tad too short for a rear application, at least for a mountain application, perhaps on a road bike it would be fine? :?


anyhow, i decided i would add threads and trim it to fit as a front. a made use of the newly bought die and tap set i picked up to get a proper handle for the pedal taps i borrowed for the cranks. after a arduous amount of time and effort, i've added about 25mm of threads. enough that it'll work on the front now. you can see where the old threads end and the new ones begin by the dark/light thread areas. just need to trim it down to the appropriate length.

 

[shutter]

FYI, you can use road skewers on older mountain bikes, i.e. the avalanche and blizzard I picked up from you both use the same spacing as road bikes. The avalanche was even originally equipped with shimano 105 road hubs.

 

[RockiMtn]

yep, i'm aware of that. but useless to me as i don't have any frames that require rear 130mm road spacing. as you've mentioned, you have the only two that i've ever owned needing that.

anyway, didn't you reset the frame rear spacing on the Avalanche to 135mm?

 

[shutter]

yep, i'm aware of that. but useless to me as i don't have any frames that require rear 130mm road spacing. as you've mentioned, you have the only two that i've ever owned needing that.

anyway, didn't you reset the frame rear spacing on the Avalanche to 135mm?

Nope, left the avalanche at 130 and used the wheels off the blizzard... That's why I parted out the blizzard... Transferred the complete group over to the avalanche