New York Albertan
Old School Hero
Looking at one of these today as a daily commuter. Looks to be in good shape. Any areas of concern I might want to keep an eye on, with one of these?
1992 Trek 8000 Aluminum
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Once A Hero
Old School Grand Master
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Welcome to the site 
Not much to go wrong on them, mines been pretty bullet proof in the 30years I've owned it!
Might be some paint bubbling if it's been subject to the elements.
Requires a special adaptor for the front mech (where the cable meets the front mech) is the only thing I can think of, so would be good to check it is present if running a traditional set-up.
Here's a link to mine for reference;
https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/1992-trek-8000-finished-see-page-2.377478/
Original brochure can be found here;
https://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/v/Manufacturer+Archive/Trek/Catalogues/1992_20trek.pdf.html
Not much to go wrong on them, mines been pretty bullet proof in the 30years I've owned it!
Might be some paint bubbling if it's been subject to the elements.
Requires a special adaptor for the front mech (where the cable meets the front mech) is the only thing I can think of, so would be good to check it is present if running a traditional set-up.
Here's a link to mine for reference;
https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/1992-trek-8000-finished-see-page-2.377478/
Original brochure can be found here;
https://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/v/Manufacturer+Archive/Trek/Catalogues/1992_20trek.pdf.html
New York Albertan
Old School Hero
I will assume this person does not have that front mech widget/adaptor. If that's the case, I will also assume a local bike shop would still be able to service it, need be?Welcome to the site
Not much to go wrong on them, mines been pretty bullet proof in the 30years I've owned it!
Might be some paint bubbling if it's been subject to the elements.
Requires a special adaptor for the front mech (where the cable meets the front mech) is the only thing I can think of, so would be good to check it is present if running a traditional set-up.
Here's a link to mine for reference;
https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/1992-trek-8000-finished-see-page-2.377478/
Original brochure can be found here;
https://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/v/Manufacturer+Archive/Trek/Catalogues/1992_20trek.pdf.html
Once A Hero
Old School Grand Master
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Servicing won't be a problem, but the original/intended functionality of the front mech may be compromised without the correct widget.
I'll take a picture of it so you can see it more clearly. Basically there is no cable stop on the seat tube, so the cable outer arcs directly from the top tube down to the front mech.
Prodigal Son
Senior Retro Guru
That´s a good case for a 1x drivetrain.
New York Albertan
Old School Hero
Great. Thanks. I'm off to bike to work - 26km round-trip on a 2000 Norco Wolverine that weights a ton, with slipping gears!
She still gets the job done, until I find a replacement, which the 8000 hopefully will be (CD$185 - I'm hoping they'll go lower. Also looking at a 970).What would a 1x conversion cost. Roughly.
Prodigal Son
Senior Retro Guru
I have not done this conversion and don´t know if you could just keep the middle chainring w/ rear derrailleur and cassette. I don´t know if you would have chain dropping issues. If not and your commute is on flat ground that´s the easy solution: no money spent.
x1 conversion is dead easy with a triple - just stick a narrow-wide ring into the middle. Alloy Chinese ones are about £15 delivered.
You do, however, need a 110bcd crank in most cases to get the cheap ones.
I wouldn't get alloy for a commuter. Presumably, you'll be riding loaded. Ride vintage steel. Steel is real.
You do, however, need a 110bcd crank in most cases to get the cheap ones.
I wouldn't get alloy for a commuter. Presumably, you'll be riding loaded. Ride vintage steel. Steel is real.
New York Albertan
Old School Hero
Yeah, I've been thinking a mid-90s steel Trek might just be the way to go.
