Thanks guys for the tips - I'll let you know how the cup removals go. Took a while but I get what's meant now - the screwdriver goes inside the head tube and pushes the opposing bearing cup out, tip of the screwdriver to the bottom of the cup seat, pushing each part of the cup out in sequence as it goes round the cup.
I did see a few other posters in various forums saying this was something to be very careful with, in order to avoid cracking the frame. I see there are two tools available - a split pipe (which I could make myself, I'm assuming), or a threaded corkscrewy-style thing for more precise seating. Is it worth making/getting either of these? Or will patience and dexterity be fine? I can apply both but only for short periods!
I'm just having a look at wheels now. Think I will follow the advice and go for a new pair, as I don't fancy taking on the rust, nor the spokes & alignment. And I gather a freehub/cassette is generally regarded as better than a freewheel, if replacement is an option.
You're spot on - the tyres each say "27 x 1 1/4". They also say "32-630". And front 70 psi, rear 85, if that makes any difference.
Just read a better article than the one I had up before, and it makes (a degree of) sense now. So the above means the wheel and tyre assembly has a diameter of 27 inches, the diameter of the circle formed by the tyre seating bead is 630mm and the width of the tyre/wheel is 1 1/4 in or 32mm. Is that right?
I also measured the forks and dropout spacings, which had interior measurements of 95mm and 123mm respectively, and outer measurements of 102 and 131mm.
So will any old set of 27in wheels do the trick? I'm guessing the rim diameter will make no difference to me now, as I'll be getting tyres at the same time. Will I need to find out the specific width and spacings of the hub, or is any given hub likely to fit? And freehub/cassette vs freewheel... will there be any huge benefit to one or the other on this bike - and will it be a simple swap if so?
So many questions!
I bought some primer yesterday - planning on taking the plunge pretty soon (weather's meant to be good tomorrow & Tuesday!) so I should have either some paint porn, or a dire warning about diy paint jobs for you to comment on/laugh at shortly.
I did see a few other posters in various forums saying this was something to be very careful with, in order to avoid cracking the frame. I see there are two tools available - a split pipe (which I could make myself, I'm assuming), or a threaded corkscrewy-style thing for more precise seating. Is it worth making/getting either of these? Or will patience and dexterity be fine? I can apply both but only for short periods!
I'm just having a look at wheels now. Think I will follow the advice and go for a new pair, as I don't fancy taking on the rust, nor the spokes & alignment. And I gather a freehub/cassette is generally regarded as better than a freewheel, if replacement is an option.
So, unless you're determined to make a catalogue-prefect reproduction of a Falcon Tempo, ditch the steel wheels in favour of alloys. I'll admit I haven't looked in detail at the pictures but would expect the originals to be "27 x 1.25" size rather than the now far more common 700c. Whilst you should still be able to find 27s reasonably easily, it may be possible to change to the 700c size if you wish PROVIDED THAT there is sufficient spare adjustment capacity in the brakes - you need 4mm available. This also drops the whole bike by 4mm which alters the geometry but it is unlikely to make a significant difference. If it were me, I'd just stick with a basic no-frills pair of alloy 27s.
You're spot on - the tyres each say "27 x 1 1/4". They also say "32-630". And front 70 psi, rear 85, if that makes any difference.
Just read a better article than the one I had up before, and it makes (a degree of) sense now. So the above means the wheel and tyre assembly has a diameter of 27 inches, the diameter of the circle formed by the tyre seating bead is 630mm and the width of the tyre/wheel is 1 1/4 in or 32mm. Is that right?
I also measured the forks and dropout spacings, which had interior measurements of 95mm and 123mm respectively, and outer measurements of 102 and 131mm.
So will any old set of 27in wheels do the trick? I'm guessing the rim diameter will make no difference to me now, as I'll be getting tyres at the same time. Will I need to find out the specific width and spacings of the hub, or is any given hub likely to fit? And freehub/cassette vs freewheel... will there be any huge benefit to one or the other on this bike - and will it be a simple swap if so?
So many questions!
I bought some primer yesterday - planning on taking the plunge pretty soon (weather's meant to be good tomorrow & Tuesday!) so I should have either some paint porn, or a dire warning about diy paint jobs for you to comment on/laugh at shortly.