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I guess it depends on how you sit morally. For me if someone is trying to currently sell something then it's 100% counterfeit and criminal, but if it's something that is no longer made then there is no issue. A genuine item will always be worth more, and a non-genuine repro is simply a product...

If you've already got an open dispute I think you can report it via that, or if not you can (I recall) simply report the seller for selling fake items. It's a while since I've done it though.

I think the bigger issue is that they are a current product from a current company and sold as real. A repro of a long out of production product from a long defunct manufacturer is a very different proposition.

Sounds like he's being a bit threatening. I'd ping that onto eBay too as threatening messages aren't accepted by them at all and they take a dim view of it. I'd just reiterate to him that you'll happily send back if he refunds in full via an eBay agreement, and that's the only way. He needs to...

Yup, 100% that. Full refund agreed by Paypal and return the cranks to him at his cost, or keep and partial refund. No half ways, he sounds like a fly chancer. What I find mad here is that aside from the etched rather than machined details is that I would have said the red cranks in those pics...

They're pretty basic decals so anyone with a little skill should be able to recreate them for you @Tom_FP . Gil at Retrodecals will probably ding you/show little interest as they're too late for his theme but Filip at Sticker Studio should do a decent job for you, he recreated the ones for my...

Not really. The Ti-nitriding wore off very quickly on these forks, and unless the stanchions are corroded or the nitriding has actually been flaking which is exceedingly unlikely, they'll be absolutely fine to continue using. No danger, no performance issue (seals were the biggest source of...

You're not going to get a Mag back, you'll likely get the most basic 26" QR fork they still sell. I'd just keep it as wall art and get something from eBay, plenty of suitable retro forks on there for very little money at the moment.

I guess it depends whether the decision to sell was based on a big enough offer being made, or them being fed up of it. They've taken the equity out and bought back at a lower price (I assume), and possibly with some financial investment from external sources which would mean they still have the...

Let me check but all the bearing recesses were a bit over tight on these frames IMO, exacerbated by how much metal is around them so there's zero give. I'd knock that out and make sure you're not digging into the aluminium and burring it up as that won't be helping you. It's also possible that...

It depends what you want from your suspension. Elastomers are high maintenance, massively effected by temperature, introduce their own damping which messes with your damper in a variable way (depending on temperature) which impacts overall consistent performance. Some people say MCU's are better...

I had a pair, killed them (bent both axles), and had them replaced under warranty with the later style in the pics above (which I then sold). Two bad decisions, the originals were amazing pedals both in grip and looks/manufacturing. The issue they did have was the axles were too thin at the end...

Is it the axle and bearings you need, or just the bearings? These all came from pretty much the same Taiwanese factory back in the day and there are numerous other companies like Gussett who made similar cranks. Standard MTB setups used four 32 x 20 x 7 bearings whereas BMX setups used two much...

The pics are a combination of Funn, Atomlab Aircorp and mk1 Crank Bros Mallets. The Aircorps felt great but the bearings lasted five minutes the pedals were so thin, and the Funns weren't the best feeling but lasted a while. I do have some Atomlab Trailkings but they're earmarked for the M1. I'm...

Bulbs predated 15mm axles.

Seems reasonable to me, remember that most of these are ornaments these days so whether it's racked or not isn't massively impacting its useability. It'll be worth what someone's willing to pay for it but given I don't think I've seen one of those for sale since they were current I would say...

Thinking laterally here I'd suggest going for a post mount version which is based on a 165mm rotor and then space it out to suit using the Avid style v-brake conical washers (which would take up any mismatch between the two bolts if one needs to be spaced out more than another) up to the 185mm...

Ah, I get you. No, this one's the Team Marin DH which is the same as the following year's DH FRS, and the 1998 B17, and they were all the longer travel variants with about 6" rear travel compared to the xc variants based on the Mount Vision/East Peak etc. In 1999 (or possibly 2000) they...

Not sure if you're confusing me with someone else? Not got (or ever had) a Mount Vision.

Not where I was thinking of, albeit not that far away. Never ridden on Skye, only ever been in the Cuillin for climbing and mountaineering but that looks like a good spot!