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A quick image search on Dogs Bolx gives plenty of photos. Most took like they have the sunk bolt and threaded braze-on clamp sides.

The tapers have to match, so likely you are asking for trouble.

That looks to me like a seal ring, with a crown race that would sit on the taper inside the bearing. Forks are not tapered at the crown so definitely would not be connecting directly.

Quite, done cheaply with whatever was in the parts bin. Probably because it saved 2 mins in assembly, too.

I can't believe that ANY headset had a plastic crown race.

OK, so what's wrong is that the E-type mech has rotated clockwise, so the bottom of the cage fouls the chain. Remove the chainset, undo the bottom bracket (clockwise) about half a turn. Reposition the mech anticlockwise and retighten the bottom bracket. If you want a replacement front mech...

It's only people who have been properly ill who want to get back to normal quickly! Please be patient, healing is work now! I hope to stop by the shop again soon to say hi!

They will. I give it 5 years. Integrated tubular technology.

The art is in being able to do it at low temperatures, otherwise you reverse the heat treatment and have some very pricey 531.

So basically it's a wireless SRAM Dual Drive?

110 can't go that small - the teeth would be inside the bolts! There are a few 33T around, normally the smalles t is 34T.

Agreed, I'd be putting a triple on that one! 42/21 looks a bit sporty.

Nice. It's actually the sort of bike that most of us need (as opposed to want). Great for light touring, long distances. I would think £300-ish. The bike market is dead at present, but it's a quality frame with a good following. Try the Cycling UK forum for a bunch of people who would...

Fingers crossed for you. Keep thinking up those cracking bike contraptions!

They are STX. If you are in the US then you will likely be better off buying locally as the postage won't be cheap.

As I understand it there are four generations of slave mount: 1 Hydrostop - these have no adjustable mounts, just a tab for the frame 2 Tapered rotatable arms 3 Ratchet type, where the arms are positioned with little teeth to set angles 4 Booster type where the booster has inner and outer...

@alisdairSH I've got a spare set of Rapidfire pods you can have for a tenner posted if that's any help. I'm pretty skeptical of a lot of Shimano marketing department's so-called upgrades, usually because they come at the expense of reliability and durability. I think most stuff after 7-8 speed...

Stupid question: what's wrong with 7 speed? The wheels are stronger with less dish, the indexing is rock-solid and far more tolerant of muck. I've gone back to 7 as it's simple and bombproof. Your point about the freehub body swap is fine, provided it's a Shimano hub, the bits are easily...

Litespeed seem to have had their durability problems after carbon frames came in - they pushed lightness and then under-built their Ti frames. Quite probably it also came with a shift in ownership away from the Lynskeys and a falling in build standards too.

@Woz that Ti frame is a great example of being designed with no consideration of stress raisers and cracks. This was written down in paralysing detail by Tony Oliver in his Touring Bikes book in the 1980s. Those gear bosses have sharp corners - no wonder cracking starts. What surprises me...