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Bear Valley SE and Eldridge had the same frame, the plain BV shared it with Palisades. Around 1992-95 the Pine Mountain shared a common frame with Eldridge and BVSE. Later Pine Mountains had nicer tubesets, but by then the lesser ones had generally gone to aluminium.

In the same circumstances I have bought Torx bits, taken a file to the ridges and tapered the ends a little. Then hammer into the Allen head and remove with a socket spanner with the correct drive adaptor or a locked electric drill. You need to keep pushing the bit in as you turn. Obviously...

Matt black bikes are just so UGLY. Painting a bike black immediately makes it look 2kgs heavier. 🤮

Definitely a Sugino as it has the concealed 5th bolt, Shimano never did that.

Looks like a perfect pub / station / commuter bike that will get chained up unattended.

A bit of riding and the rivets will be nicely buffed up. Generally it's better to use Brooks Proofide for the saddle - dubbin softens the leather and it can stretch too much. Also put Proofide on the BACK, which then seals the leather nicely.

I use KitKat stuck down with peanut butter. A blob of nutella also works. The key thing is to have the trap close to a trail or run, if you can find one.

ISO fit is Campag. Shimano and (almost) everyone else is JIS taper.

Got a Karrimor you can have for postage.

Not sure I agree - I remember hideous pile-ups in 90s tour sprints, plus fatalities in pro races in the 90s too.

Why is this in the pre-97 MTB section?

170mm Alivio circa 1997, will do photos. £10 posted.

Dawes Edge, absolutely excellent frame with a tubeset better than most of the revered top end models from US brands. Claud Butlers with the 531 tubesets I'd add Univega and Trek to the list - Univegas because they ride so well, and Treks because they are deeply unfashionable but always (to me...

This any good? 1998 Kona Fire Mountain. Was my wife's, she's 5'2". https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/16-kona-frame-92-95.477976/post-3573523

Yep, that's also what I did. You could helicoil the stripped body, but it's tricky. Alternatively, you could fill the hole with JB Weld and try re-tapping.

I use a B17 narrow (the stock one is too wide) and tried and gave up on the Swift very rapidly. The B17N is very similar in shape to my all-time favourite, the San Marco Regal.

It's nickel not zinc. Cleaning up the rust spots with soapy water and a rub with aluminium foil usually gets almost all of it off.

As Campag didn't change the leverage ratio between the later 9 speed and 10 it will do both. The key difference with early 9s is the lack of a B-tension screw by the mech hanger bolt.

It also has another arrow pointing directly at you: 'psychology' or maybe perhaps 'marketing'

Yes, all the pad bolt diameters are identical.