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lovely looking bike - I love the grey with black and spots of red colourway but feel the black fork legs worked better?

Doesn't look too bad to me. Mine was in a similar sort of state - maybe less chain rash but more rock chips :) a bit of touch up on the more serious paint damage spots, then some T-cut/ and polish would have it looking ok - maybe some gentle sanding and some new 2k gloss lacquer over the top?

BETD also sell new middleburn rings which are very nice as well - IF they have stock (spendy but about the same cost as TA stuff) https://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/product-category/chain-rings/?bike_type=mtb

in terms of gearing: 22/32/44, 24/34/46, 24/36/46 or all quite common MTB triple setups - if you have a 32 or 34 on the back 24 is fine for a granny - 28T max sprocket on the back and you maybe want a smaller granny

some guidance on replacement chainrings: there are generally 2 common types of vintage 5 arm MTB triple chainsets about: 110BCD (outer and middle) with a 74BCD on the granny 94BCD (outer and middle) with a 58BCD on the granny the other common standard was the 4 arm 104BCD until shimano...

I saw your images and I think you might be being hasty regarding the rings some of the teeth that look "missing" are in fact not - they are a deliberate design feature to aid shifting eg middleburn rings have what looks like 2 missing teeth on 2 sides of the chainring even from new: is your...

where did you get yours? I've been looking everywhere but couldn't find any 9 speed in the UK

post some links to the bikes if you want any further advice :)

the sales section here is probably the place I would look - take some time to look through postings as its quite normal for ones from a few weeks back to still be available if not sold. Generally more realistic pricing than on ebay and sellers are way more knowledgable about what they are...

Condition is obviously also a factor (and components) - and try to get at least roughly the sight size :) With the plethora of different geometries and sizing approaches I generally try to go by top tube length (centre to centre, determines approximate reach though this can be adjusted with...

Raleigh M-Trax are good - so are Hardrocks :) I dunno man - retromodding is all about what speaks to YOU. I'd choose something I think looks cool personally. As long as its a decent enough bike that can often come down to paint and graphics as much as anything else

Got these of evilbay recently for only a few quid: Wellgo - seem to be copies of shimano M730s or similar - a little crude on the body castings but pretty chunky and feel decent enough, and I like the fact they are properly double sided. bearings needed regreased and I cleaned up the races...

inspiration :)

yeah agreed - not a high bar though :) shapr really does rock though - makes CAD style modeling really fun and effortless

true but the UI is nasty - especially for someone NOT used to 3d stuff :)

also - am not saying alu bikes are bad or anything (I have owned a Klein for 26 years!) but I think a steel frame is more what generally suits - so unless you have something specific in mind I would look for steel bikes rather than alu Buy a complete bike, not a frameset - it will be loads...

I would avoid it personally - cheapo aluminium frame just isn't worth the time and investment Be prepared to spend way too much money :) not necessarily on the original bike, but getting something to look the way you want will take more dough than you think. All these Youtube bike guys...

to be honest Blender might be fine for simple stuff as well (though it has a great 3d polygon modeler its not really a CAD program)

I do this sort of thing professionally (3d) - for ease of use shapr is awesome and I would highly recommend it for anyone looking to jump into a bit of cad work Autodesk's fusion 360 is also great but much bigger learning curve and more complexity both you can use for free with some...

done this a few times recently - stanley blade to slowly lever them off, then PVP pipe to knock 'em back on :)