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Oh, i have a 50sqm double garage that i could use, but that's got car stuff, building stuff and garden stuff in it

Or just move somewhere with better infrastructure? Since i picked up my last company car (beginning of last year) getting anything electric would have been foolish. Since then they've put in another 400 ish charge points at work (about 1800 total so far), which cost about half as much as diesel...

4mx3m currently. Biggest workshop i've had since the last time i worked in a shop.......

How much the insurance goes up can be an absolute minefield. I've had a couple of fault claims and 3 or 4 no faults, one of the fault claims was north of 40k by the time it was all dealt with, mostly legal fees defending the claim (which my insurance company won!) change to insurance, about 20...

Yeah, the change in feel due to less "fluid compressibility" in a narrower bore hose........ Just get the caliper you need, a hose (with correct barbs) bolt it all together.

No, never. It's a bike, deserves to be built up properly, with the right parts. (i used to, that was a mistake)

Yeah, to you've got wellgo and VP also. But AFAIK they are essentially shimano pattern. And be will work at a push.

No misunderstanding from my side at all. The only "emergency compatibility" between OnZa and Shimano that i can remember was either not being able to engage at all. Or being locked in until someone prised the cleat out of the pedal. I stopped using them when i realised i could get all the...

Re: Re: Wants to modify the pedal to take "standard" shimano cleats that's going to require new pedal parts, and (essentially) reengineering the pedal mechanism (such as it is) Modifying cleats, that can probably be done with a dremel and care! But then they aren't standard.

No, you can't convert OnZa HO pedals to work with shimano cleats. The cleat shape is intrinsic to the release and engagement. You need the OnZa cleats, which are a direct fit to your shoe. SPD cleats aren't some sort of standard, there are currently 3 main brands, Time, Shimano and Crank Bros...

And unless its the angle of the camera shot, your forks are possibly bent?

Pretty much everything hydraulic that shimano has made for the last decade and a half or so is completely interchangeable, as long as you can find or make a hose to fit at both ends.

Re: Re: It's exactly the same frame. X-Lite is just a polished Torus (the torus was also available in polished on occasion.)

i reckon you could put an actuator in the gauge and something like an arduinio to make them move..... look nice though

It's the mavic/michelin/hutchinson version of tubeless, may be some other manufacturers involved as well. Been kicking around about 20 years. Doesn't really play that nice with tubes, or standard rims as the tyres reinforced (quite significantly) and has a funky bead shape to lock into a UST...

Don't remember them being particularly rare. I sold a handful and i was only the part timer......

I've got a couple of sets of ralphs and rons on 26" stans rims (at least one set is TLR, not sure about the others) As long as they aren't the steel bead ones, they're just tight but not that bad really. (Can you even get steel beaded???) Certainly no tyre levers needed. What have you got for...

Saw a picture somewhere of the results of someone drilling out a fairly current D-A crank to "save weight". Saved a total of about 10 grams. Then the crank cracked. For reference, the inside of the current ones look like this.

Uneven leg length (unless it's absolutely massive, several cm, something like a serious injury) is usually adjusted by shimming cleats or changing cleat setback (or a combination of both), depending on where the change is.

Another vote for the Kool Stop Eagle pads, i've been using them as my go to replacement for all the pads i have on all my rim brake bikes, road, CX and MTB. Usually get the dual compounds or salmon coloured ones (which IIRC are for wet conditions)