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I decided I didn't like the chrome Ashtabula stem (on p.1) and found a black oxide version that need some refurbishment. It's date stamped 1978 as you can see in the first picture. Sandblasted: Primed with some Duplicolor self etching primer: After some sanding and another...

I've never tried that, but I would think it would work. You might have to cut off the flange at the top so it opens up nicely. I've used these Cane Creek ones before and they are nice. http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=27081 USE makes them in a plastic...

Awesome. Looking forward to the ride report and a stand-alone thread so folks don't miss this fine ride! Great job!

That's what I'm thinking actually. Any tips on putting on the water sticker?

Black paint is on. I'm still on the fence about pin-striping it... About 10 days before I can polish out the paint lines.

Nice. Always like a good Beast! Those >'97 P-bones are cool. I just put one from a Beast on my wife's M500. http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=102103

My buddy got the white on tonight. We'll get the black on next week. First a coat of gray acrylic sealer, followed by three coats of Ford Cortina White urethane

Well done! Looks like a lot of fun. The guys over at RatRodBikes would like it too! Maybe post it here: http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=6

Thanks. I think you can never go wrong with a black fork and having the yellow decals on the frame and fork tie things together nicely.

Nothing special and very pedestrian, but my wife's '98 M500 was due for some rework. The old Manitou FS suspension fork I put on when new had had better days and she never liked the 90's mountain bike stance of handlebars lower than the seat. She'll occasionally ride the easier trails now...

Speaking of creeping costs, the wheels came back from the builder today :D SA couldn't come up with an XL-FD front hub, so I went with the regular X-FD.

Making some progress... The frame repairs are done. The divots are filled. and hopefully this is the last coat primer. My buddy should be ready to paint in the next couple of weeks!!

Just string. The idea is to wrap a string around the headtube and down to each drop out. Then spread the dropouts with 2x4 until the desired width is reached and the string is the same distance from each side of the seat tube. I think this method came from somewhere on Charlie Kelly's site, but...

I had the brazing done on the seat-stay cross-brace, so I did the old "string and 2x4" trick to spread the rear dropouts. I clamped the frame to my railing to hold her steady. The spreading went well except I slightly cracked the other side of the cross-brace, so it's back to the shop for a...

This is going to be awesome, and Your kit sounds great :!: Looking forward to comparing notes on the IGH's in the future. I'm going with a SA S80W on my '39, but probably won't get the wheels built for another few weeks... http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=81547

My LBS puts an impact wrench on the same park tool as above... he does a lot of business fixing craigslist "finds" for people... he knows! 8) FWIW, I think it might be safer than a long lever on a breaker bar which might bend your frame.

Stencils arrived in the mail today from ebayer oldstuff4yousheepdog Still waiting for the LBS to finish a small brazing repair on the frame...

I came across another mid-school Answer Alumilite cruiser bar for this bike. It's sturdier than the last one -- this one is 7075 with a thicker cross-section. The rise and rake worked well for me at my height on the Fleet, so I decided to go with a known configuration... plus the price was right.

Off with those stinkin' drop-stand tabs :D

Pretty impressive bending a solid aluminum rod! Progress wise, I still need handlbars and a few miscellaneous things. I'm 95% sure I'll go with the Skullskates cruiser bar like you. For the frame, I need a bit of brazing done followed by paint.