Search results

Two more black paints. Matte for the upper, semigloss for the hull. I wish I'd cleaned my fingernails...

Brake levers, calipers and shifter bodies receive a dousing from the airbrush. Shimano Saint dark-bronzey colour took a bit of work to match. A sense of scale. The finned brake pads took multiple passes on the laser engraver to get the depth right. The little writing "Dual Dia. Quad Piston"...

If you could somehow convince the wife of this FACT, I would be eternally grateful. As for your offer of posting something on the Singletrack, feel free. The more the merrier, and if it steers more people to Retrobike, then that can't be a bad thing. If anyone wants to share a link to this from...

I did start off keeping a tally of hours just out of curiosity, but didn't keep it up. I tend to find that I get a bit "lost in the work" and forget to do things like that. There's loads of stages that I wish now I had got photos of, but got carried away with the building part. There was also...

A quick word on waterslide transfers. When they are cut out, it leaves a white edge which simply will not do. Tiny paintbrush intervention makes them look loads better.

Three different black paints. The right stanchion is on a jig in the laser to burn out the paint back to brass, engraving the sag indicator. Boing. Adjusters will be added later. I managed to score an MRP ramp control cheap during the build, so had to scrap the old model air cap.

I will do both of these things.

Had a quick look at Singletrack world forum, but to be honest found it a bit confusing and kept getting adverts popping up. Is the forum just one great big list of topics? As I said before this is the only bit of social media that I engage in, so it's possible that I just couldn't figure it...

I never thought to weigh the individual components...

That's 3D printing all over, except with resin prints you don't even get to see see that it has failed until the very end when an empty bed finally lifts out of the resin bath. Then you have to dismantle and clean the machine before setting it away again. Or filament printers you open the door...

"I love the smell of filler in the morning... smells like...factory... Some day this build's gonna end."

Definitely starting to look like a bike now. The lettering on the switch pivot was laser engraved into the paint, revealing the white plastic underneath. This gives a cleaner looking result than a transfer, but only works for white logos on painted white plastic.

Top secret mix of lacquers to get the right colour. Humbrol don't do Kashima gold. More waterside transfers...

Getting the turquoise right took a bit of mixing. I think this was about the third or fourth attempt. Masking tape and lasers took care of the frame graphics. Waterslides would probably have looked a bit stickerish. It's always a nerve-wracking moment unmaksing. Happy with the result...

Thanks fella. I notice your picture, are you the guy that does stained glass? Might want to pick your brains sometime...

I had to keep the spec the same as my full scale Yeti. Bit of a bugger really, because it means I have to keep the spec the same on the real one until the model is finished and sat next to it. No frivolous upgrades for me. Most bits were built to articulate, mechs both move, cranks and wheels...

Could have used your help on the waterslide model. Lots of pipes on that.

I may be insane, but I'm not crazy.

Trip to the model shop to buy about dozen different black paints. The guy behind the counter must have thought I was making the worlds most boring model. Starting to get a bit exciting now.

Right, about those tyre sidewalls. They needed a bit more texture, the real ones have a checkerboard pattern embossed into them. A bit of experimentation with a scrap cast and a laser engraver resulted in this: Looks much nicer, needed to adjust the size of the pattern a little, but not bad...