Recent content by hamster

Have you tried Tartybikes?

This any good? (not mine). https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?t=164573

The bearings in the freehub body wear, usually it's the outboard bearing as it's where water gets in. It's not a difficult job - dismantle the hub, then the bearing (an industrial press fit) knocks out and you press another one in.

Nice build, really personal.

I have exactly that, it's an eczema rash, and itches awfully!!!! It always occurs in the winter, if I change to a drier climate is vanishes within 3 days. I have had it for the last 5+ years, face / eyelids / neck. I was mildly allergic to one of the chemo drugs (was on ABVD) which trashed my...

@gibbleking fantastic news! I had Hogkins 22 years ago and am clear now after 9 months of chemo. A close colleague also had it, similarly to you it ended up in a stem cell transplant. 6 years on and he is fine - the transplant took a lot out of him and he looked much older for the first year but...

Good advice - all the other SRAM chains have hardened pins and last longer. Above PC850 they look nicer but functionally no better.

Re-create a classic mid 80s setup: Dual 505, NAD3020, AR18 speakers! :cool:

I agree, especially with the narrow gap between the down tube and front wheel - looks like it's been crashed.

Hmm, external cam QRs really don't allow you to apply that much force. I would try a bolt across that collar first to see - once the waggle test is done.

The 94 was the best-looking Kona ever. Gorgeous colour especially if built up with black components.

I absolutely adore touring in Spain, I'll be interested to see some of your venturing into the Vias Verdes. https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/retrobike-touring.258143/page-65#post-3324746

I agree with @bikeworkshop - often bikes leave the factory with an ill-fitting post, often even the post dimensions are wrong or sloppily toleranced. The waggle test is a good starting point.

Cadex frames are massively underrated / stunningly good value.

I have to agree with @pigman - it's easiest to change stuff at the front, even possibly a triple. If you do decide to switch at the back, for road up to 10 speed any Shimano MTB rear mech up to 9 speed will work fine. After that it's a compatibility nightmare.