Yet another lava dome!!! (1994)

[bold stelvis]

I'm thinking replicating a multi-coat process might be the way to go

find a nice high quality model paint silver, use that to fill in the chips initially (build primer first for the deeper ones that are through to the metal) then mix a suitable green as a lighter coat on top, then clear coat.

...all getting a bit complicated

 

[bold stelvis]

ok enough about stone chips and nail varnish for now

onto build planning:

drive train will be 9 speed at the rear cos its just generally the most flexible in terms of mix and matching components, 9 is IMO 'enough gears', and you can still readily buy cassettes in useful ratios and the like (if somewhat more lardy than the older XT stuff). Period appropriate M739 rear derailleur is on it way, and a matching M739 or maybe an M735 for the front to follow. (another reason is I like the looks of those older derailleurs much more than the techy looking new ones)

Up for trying the sunrace 9 speed M96 thumbies for shifting - anyone used these?

SUNRACE M96 Thumbshifter | £22.00 | Drivetrain | Gear Shifters | Spa Cycles

Buy SUNRACE M96 Thumbshifter for £22.00 at Spa Cycles

www.spacycles.co.uk

friction is fine for the front

as outlined previously I'll be using my middleburn crankset, but still undecided between going for an 'alpine double' (eg 42/26) or a full MTB triple. I have 46 and 36 T rings already so all I'd need for the latter is a 74BCD 26 inner so will probably go that route for now

kona/diacomp canti brakes/lever are also sorted courtesy of Monkeeee01 and Shepf1000 (though this is the first time in 30 years I'll be using cantis again!) - mostly going cantis for aesthetic reasons - can always swap to V's if it turns out to be a bit rose tinted in the functionality dept!

velocity stem and impact HS also sourced from Shepf1000 - though this choice means a threaded steerer for P2's that need still to be sourced (anyone got a nice set of threaded TB P2s for a 19" frame taking up room in the shed and looking for a new home?)

The remaining choices to make it more personal as 'my build' - cockpit, tyres, saddle, pedals and thoughts on the overall goal looks wise and ride wise up next

 

[stephan]

Your no painting my nails. Plenty of automotive paint mixers where you are, take your frame along and get them to mix a spray can for you, spray some on a clean dish and apply with a wee brush (once the prep has been done on the scratches). Prob only cost you 2 x a Nail Varnish delivery and it will be a no bad match.

There is a few set's pf P2 forks on that auction site at the moment, you will need to know the steerer length you require though.

 

[bold stelvis]

yeah theres one that looks like a match in particular - may spring for it if I can knock them down a bit on cost

 

[bold stelvis]

cockpit setup can have a big effect on how a bike feels and this is where I will be likely deviating from the normal retrobike rules - traditionalists look away now!

as we all know, one thing with vintage konas is their iconic 'stance' - all those beautifully contrasting, straight line diagonals just screams racey and (to me at least) is a huge part of what makes them so good looking and popular. Its probably the main reason I have always wanted one (that and the cool colours/graphics)



There is a potential minus to this of course and that is (like many others here by all accounts!) my ancient spine is not so racey anymore, and this is one of my main concerns with the build. I will get some sort of build up and running before splashing any cash to see how the 19 inch frame setup traditionally gets on with my creaky back first

the million dollar question I want to try and answer is can you effectively get away from the low flat bar on long stem thing and not ruin the "kona aesthetic' in the process.

I could well be on a hiding to nothing here - I rarely see konas with anything but a traditional flat bar and the ones that have deviated from that, mostly seem to fail the above test. I suspect getting the stem/bar combination 'just so' might be a key factor to making it work

Below is a comparison of some bar choices I have lined up (I got totally down a massive rabbit hole with this so I doubt there are many options I have not considered. Many got nixed because too wide or because they won't fit in an old school stem, though of course I could go a different route there which opens up some more options if I run a quill stem convertor). All of these are Nitto, or simworks (also made by Nitto) cos they still make a lot of bars in 25.4 options and because Nitto are just cool

the getaround bar is a bit of an outlier in that it sweeps forwards then back - so it doesn't really affect reach but does give. a more comfortable backsweep than traditional XC bars without being especially 'risery'

the other options are ordered in terms of rise and backsweep. I definitely prefer some shapes over others - think the MowMow is probably my favourite on pure shape. It's debatable how much actual functional difference some of these would make beyond aesthetics

 

[bold stelvis]

@90s Ninja - I of course make an exception on style points for your bullmooses - they totally work!

 

[90's Ninja]

@90s Ninja - I of course make an exception on style points for your bullmooses - they totally work!

Thank you. I like where you are going with this build.

SimWorks MowMow would be my vote. That MowMow has a clean and sleak profile for a riser bar that won't take away from the 90's Kona aesthetic. Although built by Nitto, their designs under the SimWorks brand is a level up in the cool factor in my opinion. SimWorks bars should come with a custom decal kit and the green one would be a nice touch on your build. So if you buy them at your LBS, make sure the decals are in the packaging

If you are willing to drop SimWorks cash, have you thought about tires yet? The tan wall SimWorks Homage by Panaracer are the best looking and best all rounder tires I've owned. I still have them in the parts bin for a later date to mount on the Cinder Cone but I'm having fun with the Maxxis DTH's at the moment

 

[bold stelvis]

yeah I thnk I agree on the MowMow - spendy

then other bar I kinda like is the B801AA but needs an ahead and 31.8 clamp - deffo more extreme and 'moto' but I love the tight rake on the rise (one thing I tend to think looks off with risers is a big flat extension from the stem before the rise - its also why I like the MowMow)



simworks homage are indeed nice tyres - another subject I have spent far too much time investigating - and I do have a soft spot for panaracer in general

the obvious choices (ie DTH, billy bonkers) have been pretty much done to death (apologies) - kinda thinking Maxxis Ikons maybe - in black rather than skinwall - I like how the orange pops on the black and would nicely match the orangey bits on the Kona graphics...maybe not the best for urban but might actually encourage me to get off road!

 

[bold stelvis]

what size DTH's are you running BTW?
is there any concern on running 2.2 or 2.3's on these old kona frames?

 

[90's Ninja]

what size DTH's are you running BTW?
is there any concern on running 2.2 or 2.3's on these old kona frames?

26 x 2.15

No clearance issues at all