PhillB
GT Fan
Not yet, but will take some more once the rain stops!!
Yellow Hobbs winter beater of distinction (WBOD)
- Thread starter Jonny69
- Start date
Jonny69
Senior Retro Guru
Another option for the gears might be Huret Jubilee which I forgot I had in a drawer at work:
I’ve never used it because I don’t have the shifters and there’s a critical spring missing on the front derailleur. This one (thanks random eBay pictures):
It serves a double function really, it does the springing but it’s also the inner parallel linkage. Without it the mechanism just loosely flaps about.
Lunchtime I decided to raid my pal’s box of scrap mechs etc. to see if there was a similar spring I could use. Found one on a later Sachs mech that might work:
It was close, but not quite long enough to wrap round the pivot. I also found a Shimano one which is a bit of a cludge but might work:
It’s not quite as tight as I might like it, but I might be able to make up a bit of something to take up the space between the spring and the pivot until I find a proper one.
I’ve never used it because I don’t have the shifters and there’s a critical spring missing on the front derailleur. This one (thanks random eBay pictures):
It serves a double function really, it does the springing but it’s also the inner parallel linkage. Without it the mechanism just loosely flaps about.
Lunchtime I decided to raid my pal’s box of scrap mechs etc. to see if there was a similar spring I could use. Found one on a later Sachs mech that might work:
It was close, but not quite long enough to wrap round the pivot. I also found a Shimano one which is a bit of a cludge but might work:
It’s not quite as tight as I might like it, but I might be able to make up a bit of something to take up the space between the spring and the pivot until I find a proper one.
fiveSixteenths
Senior Retro Guru
Lovely drillieum on that RM
fiveSixteenths
Senior Retro Guru
Oh yes
Guinessisgoodforyou
rBotM Winner
The jubilee is a beautiful mech.
Jonny69
Senior Retro Guru
This is a 10-speed 12-28 cassette with the rivets drilled out. Next to it is a 5/6/7-speed Uniglide/Hyperglide freehub, the same as the one on the wheel in the bike:
This is the freehub wearing the 12-28 cassette minus the 28T cog and rear spacer, making a 9-speed 12-25 in pretty much the same space:
As long as the Huret Jubilee will move far enough outboard and it’s happy wearing a 10-speed chain, I’m good to go with this.
Can also run this as a 13-28 (which is about 1.5mm narrower) if you put a 2mm wire ring in the groove in the 13T cog. Clearance is clearance.
This is the freehub wearing the 12-28 cassette minus the 28T cog and rear spacer, making a 9-speed 12-25 in pretty much the same space:
As long as the Huret Jubilee will move far enough outboard and it’s happy wearing a 10-speed chain, I’m good to go with this.
Can also run this as a 13-28 (which is about 1.5mm narrower) if you put a 2mm wire ring in the groove in the 13T cog. Clearance is clearance.
Last edited:
Jonny69
Senior Retro Guru
Brake blocks. The Mafac ones that came with the frame were badly worn at an angle. I couldn’t find any original replacements but I did find some NOS inserts. Not done these before and it’s a bit of a pig of a job but a lot easier with a decent bench vice, lots of WD40 and a sharp Stanley knife.
Firstly, a picture of which way round the spring goes on the canti so I don’t forget later:
Getting the old blocks out can be a bit of a fight by the looks of it. I found if I slipped a flat-bladed screwdriver between the block and the closed end of the holder, I could prise the block out by 3-4mm. Then squirted a bit of WD40 onto both ends and pushed the block back in. That lubricated both ends. Then I could slide the block all way out by just pushing on it with the screwdriver.
These Mafac blocks are 45mm long and the aftermarket ones… aren’t. Smaller or bigger, but couldn’t find 45mm. So the instructions say to trim a little filler piece off the old block to centre the new block in the holder. That’s what I’ve done here if you zoom in:
Then it’s a matter of using a little squirt of WD40 to help slip the new blocks in:
Firstly, a picture of which way round the spring goes on the canti so I don’t forget later:
Getting the old blocks out can be a bit of a fight by the looks of it. I found if I slipped a flat-bladed screwdriver between the block and the closed end of the holder, I could prise the block out by 3-4mm. Then squirted a bit of WD40 onto both ends and pushed the block back in. That lubricated both ends. Then I could slide the block all way out by just pushing on it with the screwdriver.
These Mafac blocks are 45mm long and the aftermarket ones… aren’t. Smaller or bigger, but couldn’t find 45mm. So the instructions say to trim a little filler piece off the old block to centre the new block in the holder. That’s what I’ve done here if you zoom in:
Then it’s a matter of using a little squirt of WD40 to help slip the new blocks in:
Similar threads
