XT M737 hubs- possible to anodise?

So, its all just one big mystery assumption? 🙃

I am always that person: If it got in there, I can get it out. And its not unlikely that they will go in just fine again!

From a production point of view, on a bicycle hub it makes no sense constructing them the way that parts go in and never can be taken out or replaced for maintainance etc.
I just don't know 737 era, they use a different axle setup.

I've seen the older ones done back in the day ('apple core' as some people call them now E.g 730s) they tap out with effort I guess.
But I cannot remember the outcome of getting it to stay back in over time, I was just a wee boy.

I think campag actual made replacement cups, but that's a different brand.?
 
Would Powdercoating be too thick in the apple holes?

You can seal the steel bearing faces so they are not affected by the anodising. I doubt you’ll find anywhere that will do it unless charging a fortune though….
 
Would Powdercoating be too thick in the apple holes?

You can seal the steel bearing faces so they are not affected by the anodising. I doubt you’ll find anywhere that will do it unless charging a fortune though….

Yeh I’ve shelved that idea now as I don’t want to piss off the anodisers as I’m hoping to have more bits done all being well.
 
From a production point of view, on a bicycle hub it makes no sense constructing them the way that parts go in and never can be taken out or replaced for maintainance etc.

WHAT????? That's Shimano's entire business model.

In fairness, the hubs are well sealed and while you cannot remove the races, it's rare that you need to provided they get a squirt of grease every now and then. I have Shimano hubs with over 50,000 miles on them.
 
They are pressed in. I assume they will come out, with considerable force.....if you can get to it......but you wont get them back in again, even with a press. They are basically a one time interruption fit as far as i can tell, ie they deform the softer material round the race.

I cut one in half on a band saw, as there are so many with knackered races races, that i was wondering how thick the race was and if i could re machine the surface with a carbide cutter.....the answer is basically no....or should i say its beyond any kind of economic probability! Even if you can get in there to do it wth the correct rad cutter in the first place!

If they were made to come out, surely they would be listed as a part on the diagram too?

Why not get them Cerakoted.....im going to redo some black ones this month that way.....only issue is colours are not as bright or as varied.....powder will block spoke holes.....unless you drill each one after.....?
 
I have Shimano hubs with over 50,000 miles on them.
They will easily do that, BUT you have to maintain them.....and people don't. You don't see them with worn out races, but you do see loads with pitted knackered rusty oozing races.

Cones too loose / too tight, no grease, left standing, water ingress....bla bla bla....that's what destroys the race and cones.....used correctly and maintained there's so little force on a wheel in general terms, that they should last pretty much forever!

Problem is we are now seeing them with 30 years of abuse!
 
I had my M900 hubs powdercoated - no problems at all with the spoke holes. As long as the powdercoater knows what they are doing it's easy for them to vary the thickness where required (for example the middle of bars too).

M900 hubs - restored.JPG
Wheels - built (2).JPG

Prismatic Powders do anodised-look powders and Tim at Yorvik Engineering told me they'd improved their delivery to the UK and he now usually got orders from them quicker than powder ordered from UK suppliers.

It was the cantis that I painted myself to match, because I wasn't sure about getting the nyslon parts out and back in without damaging them.
 
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