XT cranks/BB/V's/Aireal/X-Fusion/Manitou /Giant/Scott ....

Wizard of OZ

Retrobike Rider
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This was a rainy Sunday shed clear out a couple of weekends ago. All prices include 2nd class postage to the UK. Anything like posting overseas or signed for just ask. Paypal gift please, or add to cost to cover fees. Below is the post ’98 items for your perusal. You want ‘Retro’ baby follow the link for my other goodies. I can post on Saturdays only, so consider this for delivery times.

Pics up tomorrow.


Shimano FC-M752 170mm Cranks & BB – £25
4 arm Shimano Hollowtech goodness. Minor scuffing to arms but logos are largely still in tack. Threads are all good. The cranks come with the self-extracting (spotless covers) crank bolts of the octolink BB systems. The pedal threads are all good. The BB is sold with no play The spline has no burrings as these systems were pretty good. 113mm wide in a bullet proof Shimano sealed unit.

Shagged 9sp drive train for pub bike – £8
This is the drive train that came off the cranks above. Although shagged not done-in for just yet. As it is still complete – cassette, chain & rings, can be used on a pub bike or the like. 44-32-22 rings & 12-32 cassette. No guarantee of non-slipping if you put your foot down, but still a runner. Price represents postage due to weight.

Full set of Shimano-M752 V-Brakes – £22
All pads & hardware needed for a complete bikes worth. Pads have a little life in them, but not much given its winter now. Nice condition and match the crank set above.

Aireal Industries chain device NOS - £60
Downhill ATB 110BCD model in a dusty silver ano NIB. Pretty scratched up for NOS but new it is. I cut it out of the bag myself. I fitted it to a bike but it didn’t work fit well so it came straight off. It has not seen a chain. The nylon pulley wheel & top black are pristine as is the bearing. Fits to bike by being clamped between BB shell & bottom bracket cup. It has a grub screw to stop it rotating. The bash ring is a just tad smaller than a 46 tooth chain ring so looks to be for a 44 tooth ring max. The top guide plate can be pivoted into two positions. So imagine it could accommodate much smaller front rings. Don’t know down to what though. So if you want to try down hilling on a bike with V-brakes or discs that don’t work, you’ll need this to keep you chain on & period correct.


Yellow Oktavia Selle Italia Saddle - £12
Never used this but did have clamp marks on the rails when I got it. Looks new, but probably done a small number of miles. All graphics & logos are pristine. Has FeC alloy rails & black anti-scuff panels on the wings.

Original Crank Brothers Egg Beater Pedals - £20
These are rather worn and would need a service really. Have just taken out the spindle, cleaned then & added some lube but bushings, bearings and seals want changing. Price reflects condition.

Scoot 1 & 1/8th top cap - £1.50
It’s a top cap with Scott etched on it. Buy it.

X-Fusion Shox 02-RL - £50
Brought this rear shock years ago & immediately got a Fox off a mate instead. So has been in cupboard ever since. It was sold to me as new, but does shown some signs of minor use. Dust around seals & threads to air valve with grit in them. Other than that does look new. It’s pretty basic as its only got rebound adjust. It is 200mm eye to eye. I let some pressure out to see if it stilled moved and it does. Very smooth action. Don’t have pump so will come to you as is needing air. It has two sets of used bushings that are coming with it. The set installed give a 22mm x 6mm on both ends. The other set would give a 24mm x 6mm one end & 48mm x 8mm the other. These are a bit chewed up from removal so see what you think.

2 sets of Avid V-brake levers. New – £15 a pair
These are Original Equipment I think for a high spec hybrid or the like. So don’t have the adjustment to modulation (their Speed Dial technology) that a typical Avid lever would have. See the pick for what I mean. They are light & have that great Avid shape to their lever blade that makes them a joy to use. The same clamp body as the current SLs as far as I can see. One set have a pair of used barrel adjusters that I got from anther non-working pair. Makes no difference to them but ask when you buy if you don’t want them. In fact I just weighed them on the kitchen scales & they come up 75g per lever compared to 80g for a SL lever I have. How-bout that then. Do ditch those crappy Tektro levers on you commuter and treat yourself to some understated weight weenie to help you blow off that stinking fixie at the lights.

Giant Acid Jump/DH HT frame 2003? – £30
Have no idea why I have this & trying not to remember either. It is an abandoned project now. Doh! Just remembered was an attempted at a downhill plaything. Black Medium frame that comes with a QR seat post clamp & a silver 1 & 1/8th Crane Creek Tank headset installed. Seat tube is a silly 30.8mm. Head tude is 130mm long. The frame geometry a mad as you can see from the pics so the frame dims are a bit odd. But here they are: seat tube CT is 14.5inch. Top tube CC is 17inch. Stays are 16inch. Remember this not a bike for pedalling. Think of it as a downhill trials bike. I managed to squeeze in a 2.5 Maxxis Minion in the rear & it looked snug but did clear. Never got it fully built to ride so don’t know if that was too wide. The frame has disk & canti studs. There is a bit of damage to the chain stay due to chain suck & a bit of tire rub on the inside. What you see is what you get.

Maxxis Minion Supertacky tyres. Front 2.7 used - £10. Rear 2.5 new - £15These are both the 26” non-folding downhill specific versions with 2 ply casing with butyl insert. They are both getting on a bit – say 2005/6. Have been sitting in my shed for a time. Nice and soft, but not crumbling. Not as tacky as they would have been originally. The front is use to but not much. Still has the odd moulding hair and spill on it. Say at about 80% of its life. The rear is new but just old. NOS some might say. In the pics the new rear is always the closet to the camera. Some monster tyres so make sure you’ve got monster tubes for them & monster rims for them to go on. Like in the two adds below per chance.

Downhill inner tubes. One pink the other green – £6 each.
I bet you could tow a small car with either of these. Dam they are beefy. Don’t know much about them as they came with a set of tires. Both are pretty tuff feeling rubber. No patches or holes & they both hold air. The pink one measures 60mm across when folded flat. It weighs 260g. I used this in a 2.5 Minion & it filled it easily. The green one has written ‘Hutchinson Team Competition’ on it. I’m assuming a gravity based competition & not XC. It measures 70mm when folded flat. Also written on is up to 2.5 but filled a 2.7 minion with no worries either. It weighs in at a wopping 380g!. Both are 26” size of cause. Though you could be forgiven for thinking they were 29”er due to the weight. LOL. Wacky colours so you just got to hav’em.

Atomlab (Atomic Laboratories )downhill/freeride wheels set – £50
20mm bolt through front & bolt up rear, but can take QR as rear axle is hollow but with internal threads. ‘Tough as hell’ as the rim tape says. Both seem to have sold fairly smooth bearings with no play. They run true & straight. 32mm wide rims for proper downhill tyres with offset drillings spokes for uber stiff wheels. Both have ISO 6 bolt holes for discs. Rear free wheel takes a 8/9/10 cassette. Free wheel is in good condition with a nice click. They weigh in at 1525g for the front & 1620g for the rear. The bad news is that the rear axle on the drive side has a chip/chunk out of it. See pics. I ran them on a modern San Andreas for a while & had no problems with them.

Manitou Sherman Flick bolt through forks PLEASE READ CAREFULLY – £60
130mm travel (but looks & felt like 150mm, 160mm of stanchion shows) with lock down to 110mm travel. 130/110mm is the spec for the Flick model though. Coil spring with damping adjustment. Circa 2003 with first generation 20m bolt though. 205mm 1 & 1/8 steel steerer. Post mount. Smooth travel with no marks to the stanchions. No leaks. Right, now for the rub. These came on a Mountain Cycle San Andreas. I rode that bike for a couple of months at trail centres with no knowledge of the following without any problems. The previous owner had installed the forks on the San Andreas frame. The plonker started to cut the steerer at the top of the headset level & not the top of the stem. So there is a cut into the steel at 130mm above the crown race level. By my vernier caliper he has made a 0.9mm deep cut. The wall of the steer is 1.8mm. In any event I found this out after striping the frame to build it up differently. I have used them subsequently for a short while, but with a lock head steerer clamp on a different frame. The Lock Head will come with the fork. These are sold as seen with no returns hence the price. Please consider the description when purchasing these forks & your own safety when using them. So if this does not phase you, or you need some lowers & internals could be a cheap fork for you.
 
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