Wobbly Oval Concepts 730 crank arm - Non drive side.
- Thread starter Trebz
- Start date
- Feedback
- View
Re:
It does not say it uses a Shimano BB
It says BSA External (So not internal like square taper, but BSA as in the good old retro shell and not one of the multitude of modern shell sizes around that time
External BB wear out if not setup well, road/hybrid can look ace if looked after even after a lot of use.
You wouldn't normally fit a 'mountain' ht2 to a 'road' setup, the road ones don't need the spacers etc.
A bodge repair by the owner perhaps not knowing the difference.
GXP is not HT2
I suggest ask here
https://praxiscycles.com/contact/ (they made the cranks)
https://archive.fujibikes.com/2013/Fuji/absolute-13 (they designed the bike)
https://praxiscycles.com/wp-content/upl ... A_Inst.pdf
probably what was fitted
I cannot advise on BB's to use or if lipped spacers are a suitable bodge for a short while.
But these cranks work by clamping the spindle in place between the non drive side crank arm and that lip with the bearing in between. That is the important part. It sets up everything else, chainline etc.
The drive side bearing doesn't do a lot, it just supports the spindle. It shouldn't even press against the bottom bracket on the drive side.
Advice, buy a nice Shimano 105 square taper setup ;-)
It does not say it uses a Shimano BB
It says BSA External (So not internal like square taper, but BSA as in the good old retro shell and not one of the multitude of modern shell sizes around that time
External BB wear out if not setup well, road/hybrid can look ace if looked after even after a lot of use.
You wouldn't normally fit a 'mountain' ht2 to a 'road' setup, the road ones don't need the spacers etc.
A bodge repair by the owner perhaps not knowing the difference.
GXP is not HT2
I suggest ask here
https://praxiscycles.com/contact/ (they made the cranks)
https://archive.fujibikes.com/2013/Fuji/absolute-13 (they designed the bike)
https://praxiscycles.com/wp-content/upl ... A_Inst.pdf
probably what was fitted
I cannot advise on BB's to use or if lipped spacers are a suitable bodge for a short while.
But these cranks work by clamping the spindle in place between the non drive side crank arm and that lip with the bearing in between. That is the important part. It sets up everything else, chainline etc.
The drive side bearing doesn't do a lot, it just supports the spindle. It shouldn't even press against the bottom bracket on the drive side.
Advice, buy a nice Shimano 105 square taper setup ;-)
Thanks for all the help guys, Iv'e been struggling to get my head around it all as you can clearly see. I'll re visit it all when my head is clearer. What a flippin nightmare. Bring back the standard square taper that's what I say.
Sorry if iv'e missed some obvious stuff as well, my mind is not what it used to be.
Sorry if iv'e missed some obvious stuff as well, my mind is not what it used to be.
Similar threads
