Will this frame take a tapered fork? Can I convert this hub to bolt through?

ishaw

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So, new project is building up a bike for a friend's son. I'm working to a budget and so far have, through the help of minifreak, I have a great start I hope.

The frame is a Carrera Vengeance, not sure of the year but it's in decent shape, large, and takes 27.5 wheels which ticks the build boxes of the recipient (a 14 year old who is already over 6ft).

Minifreak also helped with wheels and forks so I could go with them, but the forks are possibly the heaviest I have ever lifted, some suntour xcm30s.

I'm hoping the end result is going to be half decent, so looking at fork options. The suntour is a straight 1 1/8, the frame has a semi-integrated headset.

I am hoping that I can replace the headset with an external lower cup that will allow a tapered fork, as it seems hard to find a straight steerer 27.5 fork that's half decent, and I could use one from my stash to keep the costs down if this will work. Pics below, can anyone help confirm if it will? I think it will based on the larger diameter head tube and laying up the fork, plus I've done the same on a 29er I have, but that has a tapered head tube and I've not had time to compare sizes yet.

Minifreak also helped me out with a front wheel he bought locally and posted with the frame. It's got qr end caps currently. I've not come across the brand before, but wondering, well hoping I can convert it to a 15mm bolt through as the forks I have (well, will liberate from my son's bike and replace with others) are that standard. The hub is marked/branded with MS7. Any ideas on whst brand this is and whether it can be converted? Even better, if it can, what I need to do it? Pics below.

Thanks
 

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Time for the verniers, Ian.

What is the internal diameter of the lower part of the headtube?

Then refer to the excellent Hope headset chart:


Basically if the headtube is 34 then no way. If 44 then all good for tapered.
 
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If the frame has a 44mm internal headtube, which looking at it seems likely, you can fit an EC44/40 lower cup to fit a tapered steerer.
As for the hub, have you pulled the current end caps off and checked if a 15mm axle will fit through the bearing?
 
Thanks. The end caps don't pull off, well not when I attempted it late last night with tired hands.

8 think the head tube is 44. I have time to check with verniers today.
 
It can really depend on the head tube shape and how quickly the steerer tube tapers down to 11/8. I have some headset cups that can do it but if the headtube narrows down too much in the middle then it clashes with the steerer.
 
Head tube is straight, doesn't narrow. When I laid it up and estimated the external cup size there seemed plenty of room for the steerer.
 
Head tube is straight, doesn't narrow. When I laid it up and estimated the external cup size there seemed plenty of room for the steerer.
So looks like the headtube and tampered forks is a ‘yes’.

Now, the front hub.

That looks like a definite ‘no’

What you now need to know in this world of modern standards (or rather non-standards) is whether your forks are 100mm spacing or 110mm … then you can start surfing for cheap wheels
 
So after measuring I can confirm that the outer diameter of the head tube is 50mm so without removing the cups I think an ex44 lower cup would work.

The wheel is a definite no on the adapter front. The current adapters screw on to a standard axle. The wheel is very very smooth though.

I've checked my stash and my spare rs lowers in 27.5 flavour are all 15mm bolt through so that's a bummer.

I think my choices are'

Change wheel for another 27.5mm one with bolt through axle.

Replace the hub with a bolt through one. I do have a nuke proof generator but would need to find adapters for it for bolt through and then rebuild the wheel.

Try and find some 27.5 rs lowers in qr and transplant on to forks I have.

Find a set of forks that will fit the wheel I have. Could be 1 1/8 or tapered, qr lower and weigh less than a family car as the current ones do.

All on a tight budget.

The forks will sway it I think. What's out there that may suit. I've been scouting and not found much that I can justify. Maybe the wheel is a better change to make, cheap 27.5 bolt through (15x100) with a close or match to the rear.
 
Have you got the lower cup or do you need one?
I think the need depends on what fork I end up going with. I'm not 100% sure I have one in the stash, I need to check. I'd probably replace the upper as well as it's not the greatest headset, but will keep costs down I guess.
 
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